A letter from an ex-Guerlain employee

A very important number: the Formula.

An introduction to Guerlain "reformulations", from vintage classics to modern creations, covering historical periods, boxes, bottles, batch codes, labels, and all the details you need to identify every Guerlain fragrance.

(UPDATE: this is Part 1. You can find the Part 2 here, with more questions and answers about vintage fragrances.)

Introduction

In October 2017, I received this letter about "reformulations", via a common friend. It is incredibly interesting and deserves publication. It could be of some interest for all Guerlain enthusiasts. Anyway, it's really intriguing.

Sincerely yours,
Laura Alessi

(Translated from French.)

The "formula" number

"Madame, I read the articles written by your group about the reformulations that occurred in many perfumes. Since I worked at Guerlain for a few years, I could give my contribution and suggest a little trick. You don't need to collect and examine samples batch by batch, smelling many strips to determine if a reformulation occurred.

It's quite time-consuming and in most cases not really useful. There is a faster and more effective way. As you should know, all cosmetics since 2003–2004 have to indicate the allergens list on the box. Since then, all LVMH perfumes (Guerlain, Dior, etc.) indicate the allergens in conjunction with a particular progressive number evidencing the formula of each product. So you will read different numbers for aftershaves, eau de toilette, eau de parfum, parfum, etc.

Each number = a "recipe".

So when a reformulation occurs, the "recipe" changes, and you will read a different number. Collecting several boxes through the years, you will read different numbers — and consequently you can spot the reformulations. There is no reason to smell several samples to guess if a change happened: simply look at the number on the box.

At Guerlain, the biggest part of reformulations happened since 2007. Please note this doesn't mean the new formulations are worse or better than the older. We at Guerlain were very strict on quality, and we put every attention into reformulations, I can guarantee it. You couldn't even notice any difference. Simply check the Formula in the corner of the box, and you will notice all reformulations.

Since the numbers are in progressive order, with some experience you will be able to obtain all the information you want, simply reading the batch code (year of production) and the formula, and guessing the date and type of reformulation of your own bottle."

Very roughly, these are the numbers:

• Between 0 and 2999: years 2003–2006
• Between 3000 and 5999: years 2007–2010
• Between 6000 and 7999: years 2011–2014
• Between 8000 and 11000: years 2015–2017

Example of the "Formulas": Shalimar, bottles from year 2005. EdP (922M) and EdT (915M). Do not consider the letters after the numbers.

Perfume-by-perfume numbers

Here, some Formulas — a few numbers could be missing.
(Updated: October 2019)
(Thanks to Guirlande, CattLo8, Gabichou, Hymnos, chez Beaute-test.)

---

Après l'Ondée

• Before 2007: 955M (EdT)
• Reformulated in 2007: 03637M (EdT)
• Reformulated in 2013: 07545M (EdT)

Après l'Ondée, EdT, year 2005 — formula 955M.

Après l'Ondée, EdT, year 2010 — formula 03637M.

---

Chamade

• Before 2007: 904M (EdT), 917M (EdP), 985M (Parfum)
• Reformulated in 2007: 03679M (EdP)
• Reformulated in 2010: 5623M (Parfum), 5636M (EdT)
• Reformulated in 2012: 7659 (Parfum)
• Reformulated in 2015: 9590M (EdT)
• EdP discontinued in 2016.

Chamade EdT, year 2005 — formula 904M.

Chamade EdP, year 2007 — formula 03679M.

Chamade Parfum, year 2010 — formula 05623M.

Chamade EdT, year 2017 — formula 9590M.

---

Champs-Élysées

• Before 2007: 918M (Parfum), ??? (EdT), ??? (EdP)
• Reformulated in 2007: 3696M (EdT), 4731M (EdP)
• Reformulated in 2009: 5032M (Parfum)

Champs-Élysées, Parfum, batch 6J01 (2006) — formula 918M.

---

Chant d'Arômes

• Before 2007: 90x (EdT)
• Reformulated in 2010: 06727M (EdT)
• Reformulated in 2015: 08424M (EdT)
• Reformulated in 2017: 10518 (EdT)

Chant d'Arômes, EdT — formula 06727M.

---

Eau de Cologne du Coq

• Before 2007: ???
• Reformulated in 2007: 03067M
• Reformulated in 2016: 09981M

Eau de Cologne du Coq — formula 03067M.

---

Eau de Cologne Impériale

• Before 2007: 908M
• Reformulated in 2015: 9562M

Eau de Cologne Impériale, year 2004 — formula 908M.

---

Eau de Fleurs de Cédrat

• Before 2007: ???
• Reformulated in 2007: 3066M
• Reformulated in 2017: 11252

Eau de Fleurs de Cédrat, year 2010 — formula 3066M.

---

Eau de Guerlain

• Before 2007: 907M
• Reformulated in 2015: 8940M
• Reformulated in 2017: 10932

---

Guerlain Homme

• Launched in 2008 (EdT): ???
• Launched in 2009 (EdP): 4545M
• Reformulated in 2017: 10943 (as "EdP Intense")

Guerlain Homme Eau Boisée — launched in 2012, formula 6364M.

---

Habit Rouge

• Before 2007: 960M (Eau de Cologne)
• EdP launched in 2003: 01019M
• Reformulated in 2007: 02903M (EdT only)
• Reformulated in 2011: 06342M (EdT only)
• Reformulated in 2013: 07928M (EdT only)
• Reformulated in 2017: 11917 (EdT), 11976 (EdP)

Flanker "Habit Rouge l'Eau", reformulated in 2015: 8051.

Habit Rouge, Eau de Cologne, year 2004 — formula 960M.

Habit Rouge, EdT, year 2009 — formula 02903M.

Habit Rouge, EdT, year 2011 — formula 6342M.

Habit Rouge, EdT, year 2013 — formula 7928M.

Habit Rouge, EdP, year 2010 — formula 1019M.

---

Héritage

• Before 2007: ???
• Reformulated in 2007: 03240M (EdT), 4404M (EdP)
• Reformulated in 2015: 08164M (EdT)

---

Idylle

• Launched in 2009: 4507M (EdP)
• Launched in 2010: 5360M (EdT)
• Reformulated in 2012: 6561M (EdP only)

---

Insolence

• Launched in 2006: 2016M (EdT), 2465M (Parfum)
• Reformulated in 2012: 06785M (EdP), 06786M (EdT)

Insolence, EdT, year 2006 — formula 2016E.

---

L'Instant (pour Femme)

• Launched in 2003: 0694 (EdP)
• Launched in 2005: ??? (EdT)
• Reformulated in 2012: 7106M (EdT)
• Reformulated in 2017: 11658 (EdP)

---

L'Instant Magic pour Femme

• Launched in 2007: 03070M (EdP)
• Discontinued in 2014.

---

Jardins de Bagatelle

• Before 2007: 929M (EdT), ??? (EdP)
• Reformulated in 2010: 5054M (EdP)
• Reformulated in 2016: 09598M (EdP), 06939M (EdT)

Jardins de Bagatelle, EdT, year 2005 — formula 929M.

---

Jicky

• Before 2007: ???
• Reformulated in 2007: 03638M (EdT), 03639M (EdP)
• Reformulated in 2016: 09639 (EdT), 09640M (EdP)

Jicky, EdT, year 2010 — formula 03638M.

Jicky, EdP, year 2011 — formula 3639M.

Jicky, EdP, year 2016 — formula 9640M.

---

L'Heure Bleue

• Before 2007: 900M (EdP), 944M (Parfum)
• Reformulated in 2007: 03247M (EdP), 03246M (EdT)
• Reformulated in 2010: 05071M (Parfum), 05164M (EdP)
• Reformulated in 2013: 7637M (EdT only)
• Reformulated in 2015: 08759M (EdT only)
• Reformulated in 2017: 11152 (EdP), 11153 (EdT), 11155 (Parfum)

L'Heure Bleue, EdP, year 2005 — formula 900M.

---

L'Heure Bleue, Parfum, formula 944M

L'Heure Bleue, EdP, (bottle in this picture: year 2010)
formula 03247M

L'Heure Bleue EdP, (bottle in this picture: year 2015)
formula 05164M

L'Heure Bleue, Edt, formula 8759M (since 2015)

-----------------------------------------

L'Instant de Guerlain pour Homme

launched in 2004: 949M (EdT),
launched in 2005: 1740M (EdP or "Extreme")
L'Instant pour Homme Cristaux d'Agrumes (limited edition): year 2006, 02715M

---------------------------------------

La Petite Robe Noire

launched (as limited edition) in 2009: 4107M
then (broad market) in 2012: 6915M (EdT), 6666M (EdP).
then reformulated in 2015: 9340M (EdP only)
AND:
(limited) La Petite Robe Noire Modele nr.2 (EdP, 2010): 5719M
La Petite Robe Noire Couture (EdP, 2014): 8226M
Ma Robe Petales Eau Fraiche (2015) : 8997M
Ma Premiere Robe EdP (2015) : 9340M
Ma Robe sous le Vent (EdP Intense 2016): 10361M
Ma Robe Black Perfecto (2017): 11522
Ma Robe Pleated Dress: 13549

Modele nr 1, 04107M

Modele nr.2, EdP, batch 0Z01, year 2010, 5719M

-------------------------------------

L'Homme Ideal

"Eau de Toilette", launched in 2014: 08374M
"Cologne", launched in 2015: 9200M

-------------------------------------------
Mitsouko

(before year 2007): 931M (EdP), 932M (EdT)

Then reformulated in 2007: 02723M (EdT), 04071M (EdP)

Then reformulated in 2012: 06737M (EdT), 6997M (Parfum)
Then in 2017 : 11251 (EdT), 11242 (EdP), 11243 (Parfum)

Mitsouko, EdT, bottle year 2006,
formula 932M

Mitsouko, EdP, bottle year 2006
formula 931M

Mitsouko EdT, (bottle in this picture: year 2007), formula 2723M

Mitsouko EdP, (bottle in this picture: year 2009), 4071M

Mitsouko EdP, year 2010, formula 4071M

Mitsouko EdT (bottle year 2016), formula 06737M

Mitsouko EdT, formula 11251 (year 2017)

Mitsouko Parfum, (this bottle: year 2014), formula 6997M

---------------------------------------
Mon Guerlain

year 2016 (EdP): 10404
year 2018 (EdT): 13031
Mon Guerlain EdP Florale: 12255
Mon Guerlain Blooming Roses: 13380

--------------------------------------

Mouchoir de Monsieur
before 2007: 942M
reformulated in 2008: 5040M
then reformulated in 2011: 6627M
then reformulated in 2019: 14257

-----------------------------------
Nahema

before 2007: 930M (EdP), ??? (EdT), 934M (Parfum)
then reformulated in 2010: 5344M (EdP), ??? (EdT)
then reformulated in 2015: 9591M (EdP), ??? (EdT)
(Parfum discontinued in 2016)

Nahema, EdP, year 2006, formula 930M

Nahema, Parfum, formula 934M

Nahema, EdP, year 2011, formula 5344M

--------------------------------
Petit Guerlain
reformulated in 2013: 07995M (EdT)

----------------------------------------
Samsara

EdT
2006: 02848M
2010: 05581M
2015: 09561M
2017: 11822
2025: 19374

EdP
2006: 02849M
2017: 11821, 11823 (Parfum)
2023: 13715
2024: 19385
2026: 22222

------------------------------------------
Shalimar

before 2007: 915M (EdT), 922M (EdP), 921M (Parfum),
reformulated in 2007: 3470M(EdT), 3469M(EdP), 3799M (EdC)
Then reformulated in 2008: 03933M (EdT only)
Then reformulated in 2011: 05051M (EdP only)
Then reformulated in 2013: 07999 (EdT), 07833 (EdP)
Then reformulated in 2014: 8860 (Parfum)

AND:
Shalimar Light/Eau Legere Parfumee (EdT), launched in 2003, formula: 0461M
(then reformulated in 2005, new formula: 01445M)

Eau de Shalimar (EdT): formula 03388M (year 2008)
Parfum Initial EdP: formula 05634M (year 2011)
Parfum Initial l'Eau EdT: formula 06330M (year 2012)
Ode a la Vanille Madagascar: formula 05163M (year 2012)
Ode a la Vanille Mexique: formula 07717M (year 2013)
Souffle de Parfum: formula 08758M (year 2014)
Souffle d'Oranger : 13421

Shalimar, bottles year 2005, batch 5H01,
formula 922M (EdP), formula 915M (EdT)

Shalimar Parfum, batch 5B01, year 2005, formula 921M

Shalimar EdT (this bottle from year 2011), formula 3933M.

Shalimar, EdP, year 2010, formula 03469M

Shalimar EdP, year 2012, formula 05051M

Shalimar, EdP, (bottle in this picture: year 2017), formula 07833

Shalimar, EdT, (bottle in this picture: year 2017), formula 7999M

Shalimar Light/Eau Legere (EdT), launched in 2003, formula 01445M
(this bottle year 2007)

Shalimar Parfum Initial EdP, launched in 2011, formula 5634M

Shalimar Ode a la Vanille ("Mexico"), launched in 2013, formula 07717

-----------------------------------------
Vol de Nuit
(produced as EdT and Parfum only: no EdP)

(before 2007): 935M (EdT)
then: ????
then reformulated in 2013: 07704M (EdT)
then reformulated in 2015: 9810 (Parfum)

Vol de Nuit, EdT, year 2005, formula 935M

-----------------------------------------
Vetiver

(relaunched in year 2000; with a new ribbed/frosted bottle):

before 2007: 902M (EdT)
then reformulated in 2007 : 2724M (EdT)
then Vetiver Extreme was launched in 2007: 3115M
then reformulated in 2010: 05544M (EdT), 05543M (Extreme)
then reformulated in 2015 : 08455M (EdT only)

Vetiver, this bottle year 2008, formula 02724M

Vetiver, (this bottle from year 2012), formula 05544M

Vetiver, (this bottle from year 2016), formula 08455M

-----------------------------
------------------------------

MISCELLANEOUS
---------------------------
---------------------------

Aqua Allegoria Mentafollia, year 2004, formula 636M
one of the early examples of "formulas"

Philtre d'Amour, launched in 2000 (bottle in this picture: year 2007)
formula 01613M

Vega, (modern version) launched in 2005,
(this bottle: year 2011), formula 1618M

Purple Fantasy, launched in 2001,
(this bottle from year 2006), formula 1642M

Cuir Beluga, launched in 2005,
(this bottle from year 2014), formula 1683M

My Insolence, EdT, launched in 2007, formula 3171

Vetiver pour Elle, launched in 2004, (this bottle from year 2011)
new formula 3318M (it was reformulated in 2007)

-----------------------------
------------------------------

MISCELLANEOUS
---------------------------
---------------------------

"Quand Vient la Pluie" (2007) OR "Place Rouge" (2013)
(it's the same fragrance): formula 3172M
(no picture)

Angelique Noir, launched in 2005, this bottle from 2014,
new formula 3614M (reformulated in 2007)

Attrape Coeur, launched in 2005, EdP (this bottle from year 2010),
new formula 3649M (reformulated in 2007)

L'Ame d'un Heros, launched in 2008, formula 3514M

Aqua Allegoria Mimosa Tiare, launched in 2009, formula 4176M

Mon Precieux Nectar
launched in 2009, formula 4243M
(no picture)

Boise Torride
launched in 2009, formula 4480M
(no picture)

Aqua Allegoria "Bouquet numero 2", launched in 2011, formula 5650

"Muguet 2011", bottle year 2011, formula 05718M

Mademoiselle Guerlain, 2009, code 05719M

"Floral Romantique"
launched in 2011, formula 5730M
(no picture)

Chamade pour Homme, launched in 2009 (bottle in this picture: year 2014) — new formula 5890M (reformulated in 2011).

---

Derby

Launched in 1985. Reformulated in 2011, new formula 6355M. (No picture.)

---

Myrrhe et Délires

Formula 6497M. (No picture.)

---

Encens Mythique d'Orient, launched in 2012 — formula 6751M.

---

Song d'un Bois d'Été

Launched in 2012. Formula 6759M. (No picture.)

---

Rose Barbare, launched in 2005 (bottle in this picture: year 2016) — new formula 6894M (reformulated in 2013).

---

Liu (EdP modern version)

Launched in 2014. Formula 7107M. (No picture.)

---

Aqua Allegoria Flora Rosa, launched in 2013 — formula 07346.

---

L'Heure de Nuit (EdP)

• Launched in 2012: formula 7371M
• Reformulated in 2015: formula 7631M → 9638M

---

Eau de Lingerie

Launched in 2013. Formula 7490M. (No picture.)

---

Eau de Parfum Le 68, EdP, launched in 2013 — formula 7617M.

Petit Guerlain, EdT, launched in 1994 (bottle in this picture: year 2013) — new formula 07995M (reformulated in 2013).

---

Terracotta (EdT)

Formula 8212M.

---

Santal Royal

Formula 8874M.

---

Aqua Allegoria Teazzura, launched in 2015 — formula 9098M.

Le Plus Beau Jour de Ma Vie, launched in 2015 — formula 09108M.

Mon Exclusif, launched in 2015 — formula 9579M.

Muguet 2016 — formula 9821M.

---

Ambre Éternel

Launched in 2016. Formula 9993M. (No picture.)

---

Promenade des Anglais, launched in 2015 — formula 10117.

---

Musc Noble

Launched in 2018. Formula 12738. (No picture.)

The AQUA ALLEGORIA line
(courtesy of Gabichou from Beaute-Test.com)

in production:

AA Mandarine basilic : 07996M

AA Rosa Rossa : 12238

AA Passiflora : 12232

AA Bergamote calabria : 11167

AA Nerolia blanca : 12256

AA Pera granita : 09873M

AA Herba fresca : 06690M

AA Pamplelune : 04810M

AA Limon verde : 11974

discontinued:

AA Gentiana (2000) : EU/US-478, batch UKOVY

AA Foliflora (2003): 00195 M, batch 2LO1

AA Lavande velours (1999): EU/US – 358, batch DT123

AA Jasminora : 05664M, batch OY01

AA Tiaré Mimosa : 04176M, batch 9N01

AA Laurier-réglisse : 03409M, batch 7L01

AA Lys Soleia : 06422M, batch 1Y01

AA Angélique lilas : 02829M, batch 7B01

AA Cherry Blossom : 04044M, batch 9Q01 and 8Z01

AA Orange Magnifica : 01469M, batch 5C01

AA Limon verde : 08204M, batch 4T01

AA Lemon fresca : 00236M, batch 2M01

AA TuttiKiwi : 02087M, year 2005

-----------

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Plus:

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and others...

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