A comprehensive guide to Guerlain perfumes, from rare vintage fragrances to modern releases, including the history of each period, boxes, bottles, labels, and expert tips to help you identify genuine Guerlain perfumes with confidence.
Here we are going to investigate the -historically- most famous perfume house: Guerlain.
It's a bit difficult task, because Guerlain adopted several "letters and numbers", different boxes, and complicate batch-codes, indicating "Years" and "Months". So, we should have a look at: boxes, labels, symbols and perfume "launch date", simultaneously, to obtain an additional help.
The importance of the boxes.
Let's start!
(SEE TUTORIAL PICTURES BELOW)
After 1983 "ZigZag" boxes are not "Black&White" anymore; but made by different colors, mostly "Black&Gold".
However, it is important to notice that:
1- NOT all Guerlain perfumes adopted the same type boxes, and:
2- several perfumes changed different boxes during 1983-2008 (a 25 years-span),
so the situation is really complicate.
Are you in a hurry? simply check the Barcode on the box: if it is missing, it means = before 1990 and it's enough to say it's a vintage.
Do you want to know more? simply check the "long list" of ingredients on the box. If it's missing, it means = before 2005, i.e. before the "restrictions laws" that heavily hit perfumes later.
Fifties (1950s) : blue boxes
Interested in "reformulations"?
since 2004 all Guerlain perfumes sport the "formula" in the corner of the box, so you can easily spot the reformulations happened: read HERE
-------------------------------------------------
----------------------------------------------------------------------
(from 1976 until 1980): 8 or 9 DIGITS
if the first letter is..... then.....
P= 1976
S= 1977
V= 1978
D= 1979
M=1980
(from 1981 until 1983): at least 6 digits
if the first letter is:
U = 1981
Z = 1982
J = 1983
(The second letter indicates the month, according the following scheme: H=January, E=February, B=March, X=April, T=May, K=June, L=July, N=August, F=September, R=October, A=November, C=December)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
(from 1984 to 1995) : 6 or 7 digits
if the first letter is:
Y = 1984
W =1985 (example: WB 6AA 1)
P = 1986
S = 1987 (example: SA 4BC 1)
V = 1988
D = 1989
---------------------------------------------
At this stage, the BARCODE appears on the box
---------------------------------------------
M = 1990 (example: MH 3AA 2)
U = 1991
Z = 1992 (example ZX 4BB 1)
---------------------------------------------
At this stage, the GREEN DOT appears on the box
---------------------------------------------
J = 1993
Y = 1994
W = 1995
(The second letter is the month, according the same scheme, so: H=January, E=February, B=March, X=April, T=May, K=June, L=July, N=August, F=September, R=October, A=November, C=December)
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
(from 1995 to 2001) : 5 digits
if the first letter is:
P = 1996 (example: PE A D2)
S = 1997 (example SX A S1)
V = 1998 (example VR 0 VS)
D = 1999 (example DB 0 RS)
M = 2000 (example MH 1 RP)
U = 2001 (example UT 0K 1)
(The second letter is a month according the same scheme, so:
H=January, E=February, B=March, X=April, T=May, K=June, L=July, N=August, F=September, R=October, A=November, C=December)
---------------------------------------------------------------------
2 = 2002 ( e.g. 2J02, but there are very few bottles with the old 5digits batch )
3 = 2003 (e.g. 3B01)
4 = 2004
------------------
Here the LONG LIST of Ingredients appears on the box
------------------
5 = 2005 (e.g. 5C01)
6 = 2006 (e.g. 6D02)
7 = 2007
------------------------------------------------------------------
SINCE 2008 : 4 digits starting with a number and a letter from the 2nd half of alphabet (N-to-Z)
8 = 2008 (example 8R01)
9 = 2009 (example 9W02)
0 = 2010
1 = 2011 (example 1T01)
2 = 2012
3 = 2013 (example 3N01)
4 = 2014
5 = 2015 (example 5P02)
6 = 2016
7 = 2017
....you can go directly to "Tutorial pics" below.
---------------------------
------------------------
---------------------------------------
2002-2007: 4 digits, letters A-to-M
A= January, B=February, C= March, D=April, etc.
---------------------------------------
2002
-----------------------
2005
---------------------
2014
----------------------
(SEE TUTORIAL PICTURES BELOW)
First to consider is the Blue boxes : 1950s
Then the Dot (or Coffee Beans") Boxes: = 1960s until 1967
The Black&White "ZigZag" boxes = from 1967 until 1983.
Since end of Seventies, the Estimated Sign appeared on all Guerlain boxes, so:
when we see a Black&White "ZigZag" box with the Estimated Sign, it means, approximatively = ending of Seventies / beginning of Eighties (until 1983).
After 1983 "ZigZag" boxes are not "Black&White" anymore; but made by different colors, mostly "Black&Gold".
The "Black&Gold" ZigZag Boxes were used (with partial dismission since year 1996) until 2008 at latest, then replaced with the "pastel" ones.
However, it is important to notice that:
1- NOT all Guerlain perfumes adopted the same type boxes, and:
2- several perfumes changed different boxes during 1983-2008 (a 25 years-span),
so the situation is really complicate.
Are you in a hurry? simply check the Barcode on the box: if it is missing, it means = before 1990 and it's enough to say it's a vintage.
Do you want to know more? simply check the "long list" of ingredients on the box. If it's missing, it means = before 2005, i.e. before the "restrictions laws" that heavily hit perfumes later.
BOXES at a glance....
Fifties (1950s) : blue boxes
-----------------------------------------
From end-of-Fifties, until 1967:
From end-of-Fifties, until 1967:
the "dots" or "coffee beans" box.
 | ||||
 then: years 1980-1984 --------------------------------------------- From 1984 until 1999
The Black&Gold box
(in a few cases used until 2007)
|
--------------------------------
From 2000 to 2007
From 2000 to 2007
the Twin-G Logo boxes.
 |
------------------------------ 2007-2016: the "plain" boxeswith a small circular logo |
------------------------
STICKERS at a glance...
STICKERS at a glance...
(on boxes and bottles)
---------------------------------------------
Interested in "reformulations"?
since 2004 all Guerlain perfumes sport the "formula" in the corner of the box, so you can easily spot the reformulations happened: read HERE
-------------------------------------------------
The Vintage Batch Codes
The classic BATCH CODE
(Remember: the first digit always indicates the YEAR;
the second digit always indicate the MONTH.
10 letters indicate the year: always repeated every 10 years;
12 other letters indicate months)
Here is an example: 1st letter and 2nd letter.
10 letters indicate the year: always repeated every 10 years;
12 other letters indicate months)
Here is an example: 1st letter and 2nd letter.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
(from 1976 until 1980): 8 or 9 DIGITS
if the first letter is..... then.....
P= 1976
S= 1977
V= 1978
D= 1979
M=1980
(from 1981 until 1983): at least 6 digits
if the first letter is:
U = 1981
Z = 1982
J = 1983
(The second letter indicates the month, according the following scheme: H=January, E=February, B=March, X=April, T=May, K=June, L=July, N=August, F=September, R=October, A=November, C=December)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
(from 1984 to 1995) : 6 or 7 digits
if the first letter is:
Y = 1984
W =1985 (example: WB 6AA 1)
P = 1986
S = 1987 (example: SA 4BC 1)
V = 1988
D = 1989
---------------------------------------------
At this stage, the BARCODE appears on the box
---------------------------------------------
M = 1990 (example: MH 3AA 2)
U = 1991
Z = 1992 (example ZX 4BB 1)
---------------------------------------------
At this stage, the GREEN DOT appears on the box
---------------------------------------------
J = 1993
Y = 1994
W = 1995
(The second letter is the month, according the same scheme, so: H=January, E=February, B=March, X=April, T=May, K=June, L=July, N=August, F=September, R=October, A=November, C=December)
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
(from 1995 to 2001) : 5 digits
if the first letter is:
P = 1996 (example: PE A D2)
S = 1997 (example SX A S1)
V = 1998 (example VR 0 VS)
D = 1999 (example DB 0 RS)
M = 2000 (example MH 1 RP)
U = 2001 (example UT 0K 1)
(The second letter is a month according the same scheme, so:
H=January, E=February, B=March, X=April, T=May, K=June, L=July, N=August, F=September, R=October, A=November, C=December)
---------------------------------------------------------------------
The modern batch codes.
(from 2002 to 2007) : 4 digits starting with a number and a letter from the 1st half of alphabet (A-to-M), so:2 = 2002 ( e.g. 2J02, but there are very few bottles with the old 5digits batch )
3 = 2003 (e.g. 3B01)
4 = 2004
------------------
Here the LONG LIST of Ingredients appears on the box
------------------
5 = 2005 (e.g. 5C01)
6 = 2006 (e.g. 6D02)
7 = 2007
------------------------------------------------------------------
SINCE 2008 : 4 digits starting with a number and a letter from the 2nd half of alphabet (N-to-Z)
8 = 2008 (example 8R01)
9 = 2009 (example 9W02)
0 = 2010
1 = 2011 (example 1T01)
2 = 2012
3 = 2013 (example 3N01)
4 = 2014
5 = 2015 (example 5P02)
6 = 2016
7 = 2017
....you can go directly to "Tutorial pics" below.
(I would want to thank all people from Fragrantica.com and Basenotes.net for helping me with all these numbers, plus "MonsieurGuerlain2", "GuerlainPerfumeBottles", and other people I don't know their name. I'll be happy to add their names on every picture and reference, on request)
--------------------------------------------------
TUTORIAL PICS
-------------------------
1976 (starting with "P")
-------------------------
-------------------------
1977 (starting with "S")
-------------------------
1976 (starting with "P")
-------------------------
 |
| Vol de Nuit, old sticker with "new" batch PFxxxxxx = year 1976 |
 |
| Parure, old sticker with "new" batchcode PTxxxxxx = year 1976 |
1977 (starting with "S")
-------------------------
 |
 |
Parure
batch SB:xxxx= YEAR 1977, March. |
 |
| Chamade, batch SXxxxxx = year 1977 |
----------------
1979 (starting with "D")
---------------
-----------------------
1979 (starting with "D")
---------------
 |
| Mitsouko Extrait batch DE 0104BB1 = February, 1979 |
 |
| Parure batch DKxxxx = June, 1979 |
1980 ( starting with "M")
------------------------
------------------------
 | ||
batch MF 1056CE1 = 1980, September.
-----------------------------
1981 (starting with "U")
-----------------------------
|
 |
| Vol de Nuit, Parfum batch UKxxxxx = year 1981 |
----------------------
1982 (starting with "Z")
-----------------------
 |
| batch ZX 1IA1 = April, 1982 |
 |
| (from Ebay) batch ZF2FD7 = October, 1982 |
 |
| Chamade, special edition, Silver&White ZigZag box, "Copyright 1980", batch ZB 1HC3 = March, 1982 |
-----------------
1983 (starting with "J")
New Black&Gold boxes appear
Old B&W ZigZag boxes fading out
New Black&Gold boxes appear
Old B&W ZigZag boxes fading out
-----------------
 |
| (from Ebay) Mitsouko batch JC 3HB6 = year 1983. |
---------------------
1984 ( starting with "Y")
old B&W ZigZag boxes finally discontinued.
old B&W ZigZag boxes finally discontinued.
---------------------
 |
| Vol De Nuit, old box discontinued in 1983, but used until end of stocks batch YB 4BA2 = March, 1984 |
 |
| Chamade, old discontinued box still used, batch YK 3HC1 = June 1984 |
 |
| NAHEMA (brown zigzag bottle, copyright 1979) batch YH3EA1 = year 1984 |
 | ||||||||||||||||||||||
| -Courtesy by Rubegon (Basenotes)- "Derby", Copyright 1983, launched in 1985 Batch = YC 4BB 2 December 1984: very early production.
-----------------------
1985 ( starting with "W")
-----------------------
 with a year 1985 batch
-----------------------
1986 (6 digits, starting with "P")
-----------------------
|
 |
| Vol de Nuit, batch DA 9BC5 = November, 1989 |
 |
| Nahema, copyright 1982, batch DX 8BB12 = April, 1989 |
 |
| Vetiver, Eau de Cologne batch DT 9BB2 = May, 1989 |
-----------------------------
1989-1990: EAN barcode
appears on the boxes
here is an example of EAN Barcode:
-----------------------------
1989-1990: EAN barcode
appears on the boxes
here is an example of EAN Barcode:
-----------------------------
1990 ( 6 digits, starting with "M")
-----------------------------
 |
| Chamade with EAN barcode
MH 9DA6, = January, 1990
|
 |
| (from Ebay) Habit Rouge, MH 0AA1= January 1990 |
 | ||||||||
(from Ebay) MF 0BB 8 (6 digits starting with MF)
= September, 1990
-------------------------
1991 ( 6 digits, starting with "U" )
-------------------------
1992 ( 6 digits, starting with "Z" ) -------------------------
|
 |
| Habit Rouge batch ZF2BB1 = September, 1992 |
 |
| Heritage EDT ZK 2CE2= June, 1992 |
| --------------------------- 1993 (6 digits, starting with "J") ---------------------------  | ||||
| (from Ebay) Jicky, refillable bottle batch JB 2DC7 = March, 1993
1994 (6 digits, starting with "Y")
--------------------------------------
|
 |
| Samsara, Parfum, special edition "Metorites" batch YC 4EF4 = December, 1994 |
 |
| Petit Guerlain, batch YK 4AB1 = June, 1994 |
 |
| Eau de Cologne imperiale, batch YE 4AA 1 = February, 1994 |
 |
| Chant d'Aromes, 30ml special edition batch YC 4HA4 = December, 1994 |
1995 ( 6 digits, starting with "W")
it's the last year with 6-digits batches
---------------------------
---------------------------
 |
| "Un Air de Samsara" batch WB 5AC2 = March, 1995 |
 |
| Parure, 30 ml special edition batch WK 5CA1 = June, 1995 |
 |
| Un Air de Samsara, launched in 1995: code starting with WF, year 1995 |
 |
| Un Air de Samsara, launched in 1995, batch number starting with WH = year 1995 ---------------------------------------------- 1996-2001: |
5-digits batches
----------------------------------------------
---------------------------
1996 ( 5 digits, starting with "P")
it's the first year with 5-digits batches
---------------------------
----------------------------------------------
---------------------------
1996 ( 5 digits, starting with "P")
it's the first year with 5-digits batches
---------------------------
 |
| Habit Rouge, year 1996: first time 5-digits batches |
 |
| (Courtesy by Dofa91 Ville). Heritage,
batch PH 1F2 = January, 1996
|
------------------------
1997 ( 5 digits, starting with "S")
------------------------
 | ||
Heritage EDT,
batch SX0W3 = April, 1997
---------------------------------
1998 ( 5 digits, starting with "V")
---------------------------------
|
 |
| (from Ebay) Heritage: batch VRxxx = October, 1998 |
 | ||||||||||||||||||||||
Coriolan , "Copyright 1997"
"VR 2LO" = October, 1998.
Vetiver, Copyright 1996,
batch VR 1S1 = October, 1998
----------------------------------------------
1999 (5 digits, starting with "D")
-----------------------------------------------
Shalimar,
Batch DT 0N2 = May 1999
2000 (5 digits, starting with "M") --------------------------------------------------
2001 ( 5 digits, starting with "U" )
it's the last year with 5-digits batches
-------------------------
|
 |
| Coriolan "UT 01K" = May, 2001 |
 |
| Jicky, Parfum, black&gold box batch UE 1JC = Februeary, 2001 |
 |
| Habit Rouge, special edition batch UL 2G0 = July, 2001 |
-------------------------------------
SINCE 2002:
4-digits batch code
2002-2007: letters A-to-M
since 2008: letters N-to-Z
----------------------------------
4-digits batch code
2002-2007: letters A-to-M
since 2008: letters N-to-Z
----------------------------------
 |
| VERY RARE bottle Habit Rouge year 2002 with the old 5-digits batch ZE 1CN = February, 2002 |
---------------------------------------
2002-2007: 4 digits, letters A-to-M
A= January, B=February, C= March, D=April, etc.
---------------------------------------
2002
-----------------------
 | ||
2J01 = year 2002
2004 ----------------------
|
----------------------------------------
Since 2005:
list of allergens/ingredients on the box
----------------------------------------
Since 2005:
list of allergens/ingredients on the box
----------------------------------------
2005
---------------
  |
| Lilia Bella, batch 5C01 = March, 2005 |
 |
| L'Instant pour femme batch 5E01 = year 2005 |
-------------
2006
------------
|
-------------------
2007
--------------------
--------------------------------------
since 2008 ( letters from N-to-Z)
---------------------------------------
 |
| Vol de Nuit Evasion batch 7G01 = year 2007 |
 |
| Aqua Allegoria Pamplelune batch 7M01 = year 2007 |
since 2008 ( letters from N-to-Z)
---------------------------------------
2008
----------------------
---------------------
2009
----------------------
 |
| Aqua Allegoria Figue-Iris batch 8N01 = year 2008 |
 |
| Samsara EdT batch 8X01 = year 2008 |
2009
---------------------
 |
| Vetiver batch 9X01 = year 2009 |
 batch 9V01 = year 2009 --------------- 2010 ---------------  |
| L'Instant de Guerlain pour Homme batch 0Z01 = 2010, December |
 |
| Samsara EdT batch 0S01 = year 2010 |
| ----------------- 2011 -----------------
|
---------------------
2012
---------------------
 |
| La Petite Robe Noire batch 2R01 = year 2012 |
 |
| Idylle Eau Sublime batch 2P01 = year 2012 |
-----------------------
2013
-----------------------
 |
| La Petite Robe Noire Eau Parfumee batch 3X01 = year 2013 |
2014
----------------------
 |
| L'Instant pour Femme batch 4N01 = year 2014 |
 |
| La Petite Robe Noire batch 4X02 = year 2014 |
--------------
2015
--------------
 |
| La Petite Robe Noire batch 5N01 = January, 2015 |
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-----------------------------------
....and...
Batch-codes
Year-of-production,
all-you-need-to-know
about vintage perfumes in the following pages:
-YVES SAINT LAURENT perfumes ( here )
-CHRISTIAN DIOR perfumes ( here )
-GIORGIO ARMANI Perfumes ( here )
-VAN CLEEF et ARPELS perfumes ( here )
-CHANEL perfumes ( here )
-BVLGARI perfumes ( here )
-HERMES perfumes ( here )
-VERSACE perfumes ( here )
-GIVENCHY perfumes ( here )
-GUY LAROCHE perfumes (here)
-CACHAREL perfumes ( here )
-ROCHAS perfumes (here)
-GUY LAROCHE perfumes (here)
-CACHAREL perfumes ( here )
-ROCHAS perfumes (here)
-JEAN PATOU perfumes (here)
-LANCOME perfumes (here)
-CARON perfumes (here)
-CALVIN KLEIN perfumes (here)
-RALPH LAUREN perfumes (here)
-JEAN PAUL GAULTIER perfumes (here)
-SERGE LUTENS perfumes (here)
-GUCCI perfumes (here)
Plus:
Kouros by Yves Saint Laurent, visual guide (here)
Fahrenheit by Christian Dior, visual guide (here)
Azzaro pour Homme by Azzaro, visual guide (here)
Drakkar Noir by Guy Laroche, visual guide (here)
Opium by Yves Saint Laurent, visual guide (here)
Samsara by Guerlain, visual guide (here)
and others..