How to recognize JEAN PATOU fragrances and batch codes.

The ultimate guide to Jean Patou perfumes from vintage classics to modern creations, covering historical periods, boxes, bottles, labels, batch codes, and all the details you need to identify every Jean Patou fragrance.

"....you asked me how to put a date on old Patou perfumes, and I'll teach you it... but you shouldn't care about years and months, because I worked at Patou, and I can assure you: Jean Patou was the best. All bottles produced were pieces of Art. Top quality, the best materials, and the best perfumes. Jean Patou was Art."

Introduction

We never heard about a method for dating vintage Jean Patou perfumes. Actually it is quite a difficult task, because technicians used ingenious tricks to date perfumes, so we have to thank an old French-Italian lady ("Signora Mimma", 83 years old!), once employed at Patou, who revealed the secrets of the batch codes.

This article is divided into 4 parts:

• Batch codes revealed;
• Tutorial pics;
• Glimpses from an interview;
• Miscellaneous pics.

Follow us and learn why "Patou is not about dresses and perfumes; Patou is about Art."

First thing to know:

All Patou perfumes have a big problem: with a few exceptions, there is no batch code written on the bottle, but on the box only. Consequently, you have to rely on boxes. It will be very difficult to date exactly a Patou perfume without its box.

Moreover, Jean Patou is one of the most difficult brands to "decipher", because its batch-code pattern changed at least five times during the years. Usual clues can be misleading: it's quite common to read "Copyright 1985" on the box, while the batch code is 1997!

The main clues

SYMBOLS

• EMB code and estimated sign (stylized "e") on the box: introduced at the end of the 1970s.
• Barcode: since 1990.
• Greendot: since 1992.

ADDRESS

• 1994–2003: "Rue Saint Florentin 7, 5008 Paris".
• 2004–2014: "rue de Castiglione, Paris".

OWNER

• 1984–2002: "@Jean Patou Parfumeur".
• 2002–2012: "P&G Prestige Beauté".
• Since 2012: "SA Designer Parfums".

INGREDIENTS

• Long list of allergens: appear on boxes since 2005.

Jean Patou batch codes

PART 1: THE BATCH CODES REVEALED

(don't mismatch batch codes with "ref. numbers" or "quality control" numbers!)

Between 1950s and 1972:
3-numbers (common) or 4-numbers (rare) batch code (e.g., 694 or 6018).

Between 1972 and 1986:
7 numbers-only batch code (e.g., 8051816).

Between 1986 and 1997:
A 7-digits (mixed letters-and-numbers) batch code, with the famous "inverse" alphabet (example: W009WEB).

Between 1998 and 2001:
A 4-digits (mixed letters and numbers), still using the inverse alphabet (example: N01C).

After 2002:
A 4-numbers-only batch code (Prestige Beauté i.e. Procter&Gamble era), and later "SA Designer Parfums Ltd" era, since 2012 (example: 5175).

Let's go in details

Between 1950s and 1972:

When you see a simple 3-numbers batch code on the corner (most common), the first two numbers indicate the year. Examples:

Here you read 561 in the left corner: it means "year 1956"

You read 584 on the right corner = "year 1958"

You read 694 = "year 1969"

You read 702 here: it means "1970"

When you see 4 numbers (very rare and usually on the back of the label), the first and the last number indicate the year:

Eau de Joy, a very rare batch on the label: 6038.
First and last number, 6 and 8 = year 1968.

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Between 1972 and 1986: The 7-numbers batch code

When you see a 7 numbers-only batch code, you must consider the first 4 numbers. The scheme is:

• First number: the decade (7 or 8).
• Second and third numbers: the month (01 to 12).
• Fourth number: the year (0 to 9).

Example: The batch code is 7038782

7 = decade (1970s)
03 = month (March)
8 = year (1978)

So, you have to consider first 4 numbers: 7-03-8 = 1978, March.

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Another example:

Batch code is 8076864...

8 = decade (1980s)
07 = month (July)
6 = year
It means: July 1986.

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Between 1986 and 1997: The "inverse" alphabet

All boxes have a 7-digits batch code with mixed numbers and letters. Example:

And now, pay attention...

***You must check the third-to-last letter***

And this letter means:

• Z = 1986
• Y = 1987
• X = 1988
• W = 1989
• V = 1990
• U = 1991
• T = 1992
• S = 1993
• R = 1994
• Q = 1995
• P = 1996
• O = 1997 (it's the letter O, not "zero")

(Remember the inverse order: "Z" bottles are older than "Y"; Y bottles are older than X; X bottles are older than W, etc.)

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Between 1998 and 2001: The 4-numbers batch code

Boxes sport a 4-digits-only batch code and the first digit is always a letter. You must consider the first letter (always using the inverse alphabet):

• N = 1998
• M = 1999
• L = 2000
• K = 2001

Example:

Batch N041 = Year 1998 (because letter N is 1998)

NOTE: during these years you could rarely read a few strange batch codes such as "AO001AC" or similar.

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Between 2001 and 2012: The "Prestige Beauté / Procter & Gamble" Era

All boxes sport a "P&G Prestige Beautè" label with a 4-numbers batch-code (without letters). During these years, bottles have the batch code printed on the bottom.

• 2xxx = 2002
• 3xxx = 2003
• 4xxx = 2004
• (Note: the long list of ingredients appears on the box from here)
• 5xxx = 2005
• 6xxx = 2006
• 7xxx = 2007
• 8xxx = 2008
• 9xxx = 2009
• 0xxx = 2010
• 1xxx = 2011
• 2xxx = 2012

Example:

Batch 5033 = year 2005

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After 2012: "SA Designer Parfums Ltd" Era

You will find "SA Designer Parfums Ltd" on the box and label, using the same 4-numbers batch code style.

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PART 2: TUTORIAL PICS

Before 1972

If you see a 3-digits batch code, consider the first two numbers. If you see 4 numbers, the first and the last indicate the year.

694 = year 1969

6038 (4 numbers): first and last (6 and 8) = year 1968

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1972-1986: 7-numbers batch codes

Check the first four numbers:

• First: the decade
• Second and third: the month
• Fourth: the year

1972

Batch 7-09-2-xxx = 1972, September

1973

Batch 7-01-3-xxx = 1973, January

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1974

batch 7-04-4-xxx = 1974, april.

--------------------------
1975

batch 7-09-5-xxx = 1975, september.

--------------------------------
1976

Batch 7-06-6-xxx = 1976, June.

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1977

batch 7-11-7-xxx  = 1977, november

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1978

batch 7-03-8-xxx = 1978, march.

---------------

1979

batch 7-12-9-xxx = 1979, december.

batch 7-08-9-xxx = 1978, august.

-----------------

1980

batch 8-10-0-xxx = 1980, october.

batch 8-07-0-xxx = 1980, july

batch 8-03-0-xxx = 1980, march

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1981

batch 8-10-1-xxx = 1981, october

batch 8-04-1-xxx = 1981, april

----------------------

1982

batch 8-12-2-xxx = 1982, december

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1983

batch 8-07-3-xxx = 1983, july

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1984

batch 8-04-4-xxx = 1984, april

--------------------

1986

batch 8-05-6-xxx = 1986, may

batch 8076864 = 1986, july

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1986-1997: 
7-digits batch code 
with numbers AND letters

***you MUST check the third-to-last letter***

Z = 1986

Y = 1987

X = 1988

W= 1989

V = 1990

U = 1991

T = 1992

S = 1993

R = 1994

Q = 1995

P = 1996

O = 1997 

---------------

1987 

(third-to-last is letter "Y")

----------------

1988 

(third-to-last is letter "X")

----------------------

1989 
(third-to-last is letter "W")

------------------

1990 
(third-to-last is letter "V")

------------------------

1991 

(third-to-last is letter "U")

------------------------------
1992
(third-to-last is letter "T")

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1993 
(third-to-last is letter "S")


-----------------------
1994 
(third-to-last is letter "R")

------------------------------

1996 
(third-to-last is letter "P")

note the copyright 1989 although the perfume dates year 1996! 

---------------------------

1997 
(third-to-last is letter "O", 
not the zero)

--------------------------------------------

1998-2001

4-digits only batch code 

(first digit is always a letter) 

N= 1998 

M = 1999

L = 2000

K = 2001

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1998 

(4-digits, first letter "N")

--------------------------

1999 

(4-digits, first letter "M")

---------------------------
2000 
(4-digits, first letter "L")

---------------------
2001 (4-digits, first letter "K")

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AN EXAMPLE OF "MISLEADING" LABEL

You read "Copyright 1985" 
with box batched N= year 1998
(13 years later) !

-----------------------------------------------------------
STRANGE BATCH CODES...
(between 1997 and 2001)

These seldom used batchcodes (AO 01AC) 
appeared between 1997 and 2001.

Rare batchcodes used between 1997 and 2001.

--------------------------------------
Years 2002-2012: 
Prestige Beautè  ("Procter&Gamble") Era.

2xxx = 2002

3xxx = 2003

4xxx = 2004

(here long list of ingredients appears on the box)

5xxx = 2005

6xxx = 2006

7xxx = 2007

8xxx = 2008

9xxx = 2009

0xxx = 2010

1xxx = 2011

BEWARE: there is a notable difference 

on the boxes:

BEFORE:

This is a typical bottle BEFORE Procter&Gamble 
(i.e.before 2002)
A box with plain golden lines on the borders.
and AFTER.....

During "Procter&Gamble Era", you will see boxes with crossing  lines on corners

(NOTE: during transition periods, 

you could find new boxes with old batchcodes, 

and/or old boxes with new codes, 

and/or old boxes with new owner)

--------------------------------
2002-2005 : short list of ingredients

 Prestige Beautè ("Procter&Gamble") label 
(note the crossing lines on corners)
Note the short ingredients list = it's before 2005

Batch 2351 = year 2002

--------------------------------------

2005-2012: long list of ingredients

Since 2005: Procter&Gamble label,  
with long list of ingredients
(and crossing lines on corners)

---

Batch 5164 = year 2005 (note the long list of ingredients)

"Procter & Gamble" Era, batch 5033 = year 2005

Since 2012: "SA Designer Parfums" label

Since 2012: 'SA Designer Parfums' label on box, with crossing lines on borders.

A FEW MORE CLUES?

When you see a reference number in brackets = between 1967 and 1970 (during the 1960s there was a shift in reference numbers).

Reference number in brackets = between 1967 and 1970.

Estimated Sign ("e") on the box? It appeared at the end of the 1970s.

Bar-code on the box appeared in 1990.

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Table of Reference Numbers

It could be helpful to identify a perfume by ref. number only.

Old reference numbers (before 1967)

• Joy ref. 2459 = 7 ml
• Joy ref. 459 = 15 ml or 1 oz
• Joy ref. 460 = 30 ml or 1 oz
• Eau de Joy ref. 463 = 30 ml or 1 oz
• Eau de Joy ref. 464 = 45 ml or 1.5 oz
• Joy Eau de Toilette ref. 465 = 90 ml or 3 oz

After 1970

Joy Extrait/Parfum

• ref. 1100 = 30 ml Baccarat Bottle
• ref. 1103 = 7 ml (Flaconnette / black jar)
• ref. 1104 = 15 ml
• ref. 1105 = 30 ml
• ref. 1111 = 6 ml (Le Compagnon)
• ref. 1113 = 10 ml (Vaporisateur Luxe)
• ref. 1115 = 7.5 ml (Vaporisateur)

Eau de Joy (EdP)

• ref. 1203 = 30 ml (Splash)
• ref. 1204 = 45 ml (Splash)
• ref. P1220 = 25 ml (Vaporisateur Rechargeable)
• ref. 1213 = 60 ml (Spray Refillable)
• ref. P1215 = 45 ml (Vaporisateur)
• ref. 1214 = 60 ml (Recharge Spray)

1000 Extrait/Parfum

• ref. 3102 = 7 ml
• ref. 3103 = 7 ml (Flaconnette / green jar)
• ref. 3104 = 15 ml
• ref. 3105 = 30 ml
• ref. 3115 = 7.5 ml
• ref. 3110 = 7.5 ml (Refillable Spray metal case)

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Reminder

Joy = Parfum/Extrait
Eau de Joy = Eau de Parfum (1953–1990s)
Joy Eau de Toilette = Launched 1984
1000 = Parfum/Extrait (Launched 1972)
Eau de 1000 = Eau de Parfum (1977–1990s)
1000 Eau de Toilette = Launched 1985

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PART 3: Glimpses from an interview

(Please note this interview was translated from French in Italian, then re-translated in English...)

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Patou is Art

Jean Patou was not simply "Perfumery": it was "Art". You asked me about batch numbers, but the date of production has really little importance with Patou. All Patou perfumes were realized as pieces of art, without any compromise in quality, and don't need any "date". This is the truth. Every piece was masterfully crafted and is a jewel of its own.

Four Aces in the Sleeve

Patou was the "number one" in perfumery because it had four aces in the sleeve:

• Independent Management: Jean Patou was a relatively small company, headed by nephews and relatives. Being distant from big corporations allowed a few people to take decisions with pride and commitment.
• Complete Control: Patou had its own fields in Provence for roses and jasmines and a private factory at Levallois ("the city of perfumes"). Producing everything "at home" gave an enormous advantage in quality.
• No Compromise: Following Patou's philosophy, haute parfumerie was the best complement for haute couture. We never spared expenses; only the best materials were used.
• The Best Nose: Jean Kerleo was a true genius. Everyone knew in advance that any perfume prepared by him would be a masterpiece.

Only Chanel, Christian Dior, and Guerlain could stay "on par" with us... maybe.

My first Patou

I remember my first impact with a Patou perfume: it was "Amour Amour". I removed the cap and smelled directly from the bottle. Boom! I was completely blown away by the strongest powdery wave ever imaginable, mixed with beautiful flowers. It was divine.

Obsessed with Quality

Why so obsessed? Because quality was our "business card". Patou thought that making the best perfumes in the world would bring visibility. Often, these perfumes were so expensive to produce that they barely made any real gain. Patou was the archetype of the "serious perfumer".

Magnificence and Ruin

It is painful to say, but one of the reasons why Patou failed was its refusal to compromise. It was impossible to maintain such high standards through the years. But this is exactly why I am so fond of Patou: it refused to cheapen products. You could like or dislike them, but there have never been perfumes better than Patou ones, and I think there never will be.

The Biggest Drawback: Fragility

Forget about batch codes and listen to me: the most important thing you should know is the fragility of certain perfumes—specifically the "extraits" or "parfums".

All Patou extraits are easily ruined. We used to say: "Stay away from Heat, Air, and Light." They were sealed by hand using a wet membrane. Once the golden cord and the membrane are removed, the degradation process happens very quickly.

After just two or three years, your extrait is completely ruined! Don't look at the batch codes—look at the integrity instead!

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Buying Tips

First and foremost: NEVER buy any vintage Patou extrait/perfume with its cord and membrane removed or damaged. They are almost certainly ruined by exposure to air, light, and heat.

• Sealed bottles without box: Be VERY careful. Light probably ruined the contents (unless you are considering the small black bottles).
• Bottles inside the box: Be suspicious of a "still sealed bottle" that shows significant evaporation. If it’s evaporated, something went wrong.
• Cellophane-sealed boxes: Most likely they are in perfect condition. If you find one, grab it without hesitation: it is a treasure.

NO: The cord and membrane are removed. Buy for collection only, not for perfume.

YES: Cord and membrane are intact.

The Golden Label

Many parfum/extrait bottles sport a label made of genuine gold. You can recognize it because it seems "printed" on the bottle and cannot be peeled off. It is a foil of pure gold applied directly. The same applies to the cap of "Patou pour Homme". Don't throw away your empty bottles!

The Golden Ratio

Louis Sue and Andre Mare created the iconic transparent bottle for "Joy" following the "Golden Ratio" rule (or Divine Proportion), a mathematical rule used in ancient art to achieve aesthetic perfection. The bottle of Joy is a true application of Math in Art.

Worsening of quality in late years?

This question makes me furious! Until Jean Patou was independent (before Procter & Gamble), there was no deterioration in quality. Jean Kerleo was committed to the highest standards year after year. Every batch was checked carefully.

Kerleo retired in 1999, and I would personally buy all Patou scents until that date. The sale to Procter & Gamble in 2001 and the move to the UK is another story entirely.

---

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The Bargain Basket

A few years ago, while on holiday near Portofino, Italy, I walked into a perfume shop and saw a "bargain basket" where the seller had put heavily-discounted perfumes for 10-20 euros. I saw a bottle of Ma Liberté—one of the most carefully-built scents—and I almost fainted. For a moment, I wanted to tell the seller: "Do you have any idea what treasure you've put in that basket?" In the end, I held back.

"Reformulations"? Of course!

That is a strange question, because all perfumes are continuously reformulated. The most sophisticated perfumes (like Joy, 1000, and Sublime) contained such high amounts of natural ingredients that they were reformulated literally batch-to-batch.

Since no two crops of jasmine, rose, or osmanthus are identical, technicians had to "re-orchestrate" the formula constantly. The best reformulation is the one where the customer doesn't notice any change; that was where our technicians spent most of their time.

• Joy: A relatively simple formula composed of 7-8 different roses and jasmines (mainly Rose de Mai and Jasmine de Grasse) plus a "base" prepared by an external lab. It was easy to "re-orchestrate" by varying the amounts.
• 1000: Significantly more complex and difficult to adjust.

Aside from natural variances, we sometimes had to change formulas when certain molecules were banned, such as specific musks during the seventies.

The "One-Off" Scents

Joy and 1000 are true "one-offs" in the world of perfumery. They were so expensive to produce that they barely made any real profit, yet Patou never made any compromises. In an over-crowded market, Joy was the equivalent of a "Ferrari"—it had practically no competitor. It was the ultimate business card for the company: "Joy de Jean Patou, it's simply the best." Unfortunately, that was also its biggest problem: it was impossible to cheapen.

Could You Believe It?

When Patou launched 1000, it was one of the most expensive perfumes in the world. Because high-quality osmanthus was so scarce, Patou bought land in China, grew their own flowers, and even built a factory there. Yes, we had a facility in China to maintain absolute control over the production of our raw materials from beginning to end. That osmanthus was used mainly in 1000 and Sublime.

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--------------------------------

Karl Lagerfeld

....a few people are aware of the fact that famous Karl Lagerfeld designed haute couture collections at Jean Patou during the 1960s. Later, he reportedly said: "A lot of  things for which Chanel gets credit were actually created by Jean Patou". 

Ok, he was not speaking about perfumes, but it was the best compliment one could receive.

-------------------------------

Sampling Patou perfumes after year 2000

... Well, I was given two samples, "Joy" and "1000", both as Eau de Toilette produced by Procter&Gamble in the 2000s. I almost fainted, reading "Made in UK" instead of  "Made in France" on the box!

 Well, in my opinion, "1000" Eau de Toilette was *barely* acceptable. There are a lot of differences from the original version, but I judged it as "barely acceptable".... 

....but "Joy" Eau de Toilette was terrible instead! The basenotes were completely wrong, with an atrocious aroma of burnt rubber......

I didn't test any "Parfum" (and I hope they are better than EdTs), but if you love Patou perfumes, you should stay away from any scent produced in those years. 

To be honest, I never sampled perfumes produced by SA Designer Parfums (i.e. since 2012), so I can't say anything about. 

-----------------------------

"Joy" and "Eau de Joy"

....technically "Joy" is the Parfum (or "Extrait"), while "Eau de Joy" is the "Eau de Parfum", a more affordable and wearable version, launched during the 1950s.

The difference was not only a dilution, but a "reorchestration".

Joy (Extrait/Parfum) used 7-8 different types of roses and jasmines, plus other ingredients, mixed together in precise amounts.

All these amounts were modified in "Eau de Joy".

Then in the middle of the 1980s, we re-launched the "Joy Eau de Toilette" (it already existed in the 1950s), the lightest version, using further dilutions and further different amounts.

So, there are three scents, different each other by dilutions and proportions.

The same thing (dilutions and different proportions) happened to "1000" (Parfum), "Eau de 1000" (EdP, launched at the end of 1970s), and "1000 Eau de Toilette" (EdT, launched in 1985). 

------------------------

100% naturals? 

.....let's speak frankly, no one produced perfumes that are 100% naturals. Everyone used synthetics, in various amounts, and everyone used the so-called "bases", (i.e. a sort of "perfume basic core" already prepared) around which the final perfume is built. You know, perfumers can use expensive molecules, or dirty cheap ones. At Patou we used only the finest and the best ingredients in order to obtain the best perfumes. 

---------------------------

Chanel N.5 and math...

....you heard the news: "Chanel n.5" is the best perfume in the world, the most sensual, the most famous, Marilyn Monroe's favourite, the overall bestseller, and finally "Chanel n.5 contains a dozen of roses and a thousand of jasmine flowers inside a 1 oz. bottle!".

Well, someone did the math: "Joy", since its creation, contain the equivalent of 11 roses, plus 350 jasmine flowers, per milliliter (1/30 oz). 

This means a mere 3 ml (1/10oz.) of "Joy" outperforms in roses and jasmine a whole bottle of "Chanel n.5". Remember it! 

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A phone call

....many years ago I received a call from an aromatherapist, she told me "Joy" and "1000" were extraordinary because of real roses, real jasmines, osmanthus! Ooooh, real flowers, not synthetic ones! So rare, so magnificent, so unique! 

I giggled for hours, figuring Jean Patou perfumes used for  aromatherapy with great results!

---------------------

False Beliefs

...a few people think Patou began its decline when Christian Lacroix quitted at the end of 1980s. Rubbish! 

Although it was a unpleasant story with papers spreading the news exaggerately, and with legal consequences, Patou still flourished for a few years. Declining arrived during the Nineties, when the big corporations acquired all perfume companies.

------------------------

The End

...at the end of 1980s Arnault bought Parfums Christian Dior, then: Caron was sold to hypermarket Cora; Yves Saint Laurent was bought by pharmaceutical group Sanofi, Rochas by Wella, Guerlain and Givenchy by LVMH ..... how could Patou keep its independence? The big corps destroyed everything.

----------------------------

Not all "wine and roses".

...working at Patou it wasn't all "wine and roses", there were also many unpleasant moments, but I think this happens in all jobs, isn't it? Here, I want to remember only nice moments.

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A final thought

I'm glad of these questions, and I want to say one more thing. People think Chanel, Dior, Guerlain, Hermes, are the best, the most famous, the highest-quality perfumes ever produced. 

Well, believe me, "classical" Jean Patou perfumes were not inferior to others. Patou deserves at least the same credit and respect. 

Well, I hope this interview will help to give Jean Patou the right place and, after so many years, to have the due consideration among the great actors in Perfumery. 

The Greatest one, maybe.

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About Perfumes....

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 "Joy"

....."Joy" was voted "Scent of the XX Century", beating its rival Chanel N.5. Any further question? I'll repeat it staunchly: grab every intact bottle of "Joy" you can find, it will be a treasure in your hands.

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"Lacoste" (since 1967)

Raymond Barbas (director of Patou for 45 years, and Jean Patou's grandson) and Rene Lacoste (creator of the famous "green crocodile" brand) were close friends and both agreed to create Lacoste perfumes under the Patou supervision. Patou launched 4 or 5 Lacoste perfumes during years (all created by Jean Kerleo and coll.). Most notable the first ones, launched during the 1960s, then "Lacoste pour Homme" and "Lacoste Land", later.

The first one was launched in 1967 and it was a fresh, summer scent in the same manner of Eau Sauvage, but above all was the percursor of the magnificent "Eau de Patou" launched in 1976.  

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"1000" 

("Le Parfum Deraisonnable", 1972)

The Deraisonnable, or Unreasonable: this was a so iconic perfume and it has been talked about so much that I do not know what else to say. Raymond Barbas asked Jean Kerleo another "one-off" in the same way as "Joy": creating something really unique. A work of Art and a Jewel, more than a scent. 

After many years of attempts, Kerleo presented "1000", a perfume so rare, unique and expensive that never made any real profit, but it was marketed due to its iconicity. Osmanthus, rose, jasmine, lily-of-the-valley, ylang-ylang, civet, musk...what else? 

It was launched in the same way of Joy. If you read Elsa Maxwell's memories, you will know the launch of "Joy" realized using a revolutionary marketing: i.e. as a gift for the most notable people, a fact that gave enormous publicity.

"1000" was marketed exactly in the same way, as a gift for the most famous french women. But it was so scarce that the first year of production was sold out "as a gift" without a single bottle being sold! 

During early years, "1000" had to be sold only on request. Later, Patou bought osmanthus fields in China, built a factory there, and produced its own flowers, increasing the production. At the end of 1970s "Eau de 1000" (the EdP) was launched, and followed by "1000 Eau de Toilette" (EdT, 1985). 

It seems impossible, if looked with modern eyes: a perfume produced without any gain, just to keep the brand-name high!

During early years "1000" was produced only as "parfum" and only "by request", and each bottle was sold with progressive hand-numbered cardboard. 

  

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Eau de Patou 

("Elegance without high heels", 1976)

Simply marvellous. "Eau de Patou" was a development of  the first "Lacoste": the two scents actually share quite a few similarities ... but what an improving! 

Arguably the best "Eau de" ever produced, it was the epitome of Freshness. A perfume full of contrast, sweet and bitter at the same time, suitable for men and women, you could even use it during winter and summer! 

I remember the first "splash" bottles had a square silver cap, so big and chunky, that was problematic to put on and off. 

When it was relaunched at the end of the 1980s with a different, conic bottle, the advertising said: "this is Patou elegance without high heels", and believe me this was the best compliment. 

Although in a different bottle, the scent remained exactly the same. Could you ruin such a magnificent perfume?

---------------------------------------------

Patou pour Homme

("...and then it arrived.", 1980)

One of the greatest masculine ever, and one of Jean Kerleo's greatest achievements. According a famous story, Raymond Barbas sampled it, then said: "Well, I can retire just now". Although it's only a story, actually he retired! 

Patou pour Homme was very, very expensive (as all Patou perfumes), bold, rich, gorgeous, and I can't find proper words to describe it. Unless you try it, you can't figure it out.

Built around a lavender-tobacco accord, it was so strong that even aftershaves lasted for hours. A real powerhouse.

One of the best compliment was: "Patou pour Homme could be the beginning and the end of any discussion about perfumes". That's right! 

The advertise told " ...puis survint Patou pour Homme", i.e. "...and then arrived Patou pour Homme". 

Exactly: never smelled something like this before.

Don't throw away old bottles: the cap is covered with gold.

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Ma Liberte 

("Moment Supreme 2", 1987)

Well, I left Patou immediately before Ma Libertè... This is a fragrance that deserves whole books to be able to say all there is to say, although it is remembered for its unusual marketing in many european countries: newspapers were soaked with the EdT, and when you flipped pages, you smelled the perfume all around! 

Jean Kerleo received fierce critics for Ma Libertè after its launch, because it was so different from any previous Patou perfume. One of the critics said it was a "Guerlain vu par Jean Patou", ("Jean Patou launched a perfume similar to those of Guerlain!").... 

Well, when in 1980 Raymond Barbas retired, his place was taken by the grandnephews Jean and Guy deMouy. The first thing they did was a try to "rejuvenate" the brand. Christian Lacroix was hired for the haute couture, and at least for the first years this turned out to be a winning move. 

You see, Patou was considered by many an old-fashioned brand and this new wave of youth brought new life. So, deMouy asked Jean Kerleo to create a new perfume taking into account the new "youth" of the brand. For some reason, Kerleo was inspired by one of the biggest Patou hits from the past, the legendary "Moment Supreme", one of the best lavender/oriental perfumes ever made. 

"Ma Libertè" was "Moment Supreme" revisited, with a modernized habit, "unisex", suited to modern times. 

Facing a new challenge, the scent was nevertheless made with the utmost care in raw materials and ingredients. At the end, Ma Libertè resulted in something magnificent but completely different from the usual Patou perfumes, vaguely resembling a Guerlain. 

The audience remained perplexed since Ma Liberte lacked the fierce "sillage" (or "projection") typical of all other Patou perfumes.

Interesting fact: it was never produced as a Perfume, but as EdT and EdP only, using two beautiful ArtDeco-style EdP bottles.

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Sublime 

("Back to glorious days", 1992)

Just a word: perfection. If you want to know what "a scent" is, simply smell Sublime, or spray it on your clothes. Jean Kerleo took years to develop it, avoiding all critics he received for his previous scent, and scored again. 

It was another gorgeous Jean Patou-style scent, at highest level. 

The most incredible thing is that Sublime looks like a modern perfume and an old-classic at the same time. 

One of my favourites. In my opinion, it could be on par with Joy and "1000", or just a tiny step behind.

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Privè

("Ma Libertè 2", 1994)

Ma Libertè was the the most criticized of all Patou perfumes but when Privè was launched instantly got wild, ravage reviews: "....the best modern masculine is here!". Well, you should know it: Privè is nothing but Ma Liberte with the simple "fougere" accord added. If you sample Privè and Ma Libertè side-by-side, you realize that they are very similar.

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Voyageur (The Fiasco, 1995)

Ok, I left Patou a few years before, and I can't tell much about it. You know the story: it was Patou's biggest fiasco. 

The most expensive Eau de Toilette for Men ever launched, and the first "Aquatic Fougere": it was so unusual.

You still smell an amazing quality -as every Patou perfume- but at the same time you feel confused. It's a mix between "old and new". But this "old and new" style worked wonderfully with Sublime, and failed utterly with Voyageur. 

Yet in my opinion, is still a nice fragrance and improves with time. You have to try it many times to really appreciate it.

Even today I wonder if it was an unrecognized masterpiece or just a disaster. No one really understood it, and probably will be rediscovered in thirty years. Someone says it was too far ahead of the times....

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Yohji

("Sublime 2", 1996)

This is truly a great perfume and deserves a lot of consideration: it was created on commission for the Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto. I was told Jean Kerleo resumed the old Sublime formula by adding new, unusual spiced tones. It turned out in a magnificent unisex scent, and it was the precursor of many other perfumes launched during following years (Bvlgari Black, Body Kouros, etc).

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Patou Forever (1998)

("Colony 2")

This is the last perfume I can tell something. It was last classical Patou perfume, and it was another interpretation from the past. Patou Forever was a rebuilding from old classic Colony. 

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Miscellaneous

"Flaconnette" / Black Jar, end of 1940s

Bottom of the "Flaconnette", end of 1940s

"Flaconnette" Box, end of 1940s

Joy, label on the bottle, year 1955. Notice the very small "DE" word.

Joy, bottom of the bottle, year 1955

Joy Eau de Toilette, year 1955

AmourAmour, Parfum Cologne, year 1956

Eau de Joy, 45ml, year 1961: 
notice the old wrapping paper.

Eau de Joy, year 1963

Eau de Joy, box, year 1968:
notice ref. numbers with and without brackets

Eau de Joy, year 1968: notice the batchcode
printed "under the label"

"AmourAmour", Parfum-Cologne,
year 1969

"Moment Supreme", Eau de Toilette,
 year 1970

Moment Supreme, Parfum-Cologne,
60ml, year 1971

Moment Supreme, Parfum-Cologne,
60ml, year 1971

"AmourAmour", parfum 7.5ml,
batchcode 7065754 ,year 1975

"Eau de Caline", 120 ml / 4 oz.
batch code 7053732 (year 1973)

Joy "LeCompagnon", 6ml, year 1973

Vapomiseur Spray de Luxe, 10 ml, year 1973

Typical single-boxed "Flaconnette" (black jar),
produced from late 1960s until 1975.
Notice "Joy Jean Patou" without the word "DE".

Joy, 7.5ml, inner and outer boxes, year 1973

Typical "Flaconnette" (Black jar) boxes and bottle,
 year 1976-1986. Notice "Joy DE Jean Patou"

Typical Flaconnette, bottle and boxes, since 1988
notice the thick-borders "golden" box.

Typical "Vapomiseur" spray, 7.5 ml,  years 1973-1982 

Joy, Parfum, 15 ml,
year 1975 (JP-embossed box)

Joy,  Parfum, 15ml, year 1977

Eau de Joy, Vapomiseur, 45 ml,
 year 1979

"1000", Parfum, year 1980

"AmourAmour" 120ml/4oz. Parfum Cologne,
batch code 8030802 (year 1980)

Eau de 1000, Vapomiseur, 60ml.
Year 1981

1000, Parfum, 7.5ml, year 1982

Eau de Joy Vapomiseur, year 1984

"1000", EdT, 30ml, year 1988

"Eau de Joy"/ Eau de Parfum,
 60ml / 2 oz spray rechargeable
 in plastic "flaconnette", year 1991

Joy Eau de Toilette, with "JOY-embossed box",
year 1991

Eau de Joy, 30ml, year 1992

"1000", Parfum, 7.5 ml Green Flaconnette,
year 1994

Eau de Patou, year 1995

Joy, 30ml, year 1999

Joy, Parfum, Flaconnette, year 2001

"Vacances", Ma Collection Edition,
batch code L01A (year 2000)

Joy, Parfum, 30ml, modern.

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Many Thanks to:

-Grace Hummel
-K.Janicki
-Monsieurguerlain
-Andre Moreau
-Kafkaesque