OPIUM, the Greatest: a guide for collectors.

A complete guide to YSL Opium perfumes, from vintage classics to modern ones, covering historical periods, boxes, batch codes, bottles, labels, and all the details you need to identify this legendary fragrance.

"It will be the Greatest, and we will call it Opium"
(Yves Saint Laurent, 1976)

Sexy, Sultry, Seductive, Successful: it's Opium. After Samsara, this is my second tribute to the wonderful scents of my youth: this time we talk about the Greatest one.

This article is divided in 7 parts:

Contents

• Opium at a Glance
• Box and Bottles Through the Years
• Bottles "Year-by-Year"
• The Advertisements
• The Flankers
• The Opium Universe
• Tutorial Pics

I tried to make some sort of "Opium encyclopedia". Enjoy it!

FOREWORD: for any reference about YSL perfumes (such as "batchcodes", "barcodes", "greendot", "Charles of the Ritz", "Parfums Corp.", "Sanofi", "Gucci-Era", etc.) check this guide. And remember: YSL is famous for messing up boxes, labels and bottles!

Part 1: Opium at a Glance

Launched in 1977 in France (1978 in USA), it was the fifth perfume by Yves Saint Laurent (after "Y", 1964; "Pour Homme", 1971; "Rive Gauche", 1971; and "Eau Libre", 1975).

Created by Jean Louis Sieuzac, Jean Amic and Raymond Chaillan, three noses from "Roure", YSL's preferred perfume factory.

Opium Eau de Toilette was so concentrated that they didn't even launch an Eau de Parfum (19% EDT concentration, 30% Parfum).

It was the first mass fragrance using the new, revolutionary "natural spray" mechanism, instead of the usual gas-propellant one.

The Perfume was purposely sold at a higher price than Chanel N°5. Despite this, every bottle sold within hours.

Opium was arguably the most successful fragrance in the world: in just nine months, it amassed the astonishing sum of $3 million. At the time, Yves Saint Laurent did not own YSL perfumes (it was "Charles of the Ritz"), and he received only a small percentage per bottle sold. He then decided to buy back the entire operation (YSL "Parfums Corp.", in 1986). It was, in effect, YSL's fortune.

The tassels of the perfume bottles were difficult to obtain; production slowed down periodically because of their scarcity.

Opium is one of the most counterfeited perfumes in history: by some estimates, there are ten fake bottles for every authentic one.

The Japanese "inro" and the Opium splash bottle

The traditional Opium "splash" bottle, designed by Pierre Dinand, was inspired by the so-called "inro", a Japanese lacquered small case worn under the kimono.

The name "Opium" caused a violent stir because it was named after a drug. It was banned in a few countries, but the controversy gave the fragrance enormous attention and publicity.

The launch party held in New York (September 1978) for the US debut was one of the wildest, most iconic and most sumptuous events of the Seventies.

A very easy method to detect early bottles is to find the mark "80°" alcohol volume. After 1980, the "80°" notation was forbidden and replaced with "80%". Old boxes were naturally used until end of stock, so "80°" can still appear on bottles from 1981, 1982, 1983.

The original lineup (1977) was composed by:

• Three EdT spray bottles in unusual sizes: 36ml (1.2oz), 69ml (2.3oz), and 105ml (3.5oz)
• Two EdT splash bottles: 60ml (2oz) and 120ml (4oz)
• Three Parfum bottles: 7.5ml (1/4oz), 15ml (1/2oz), 30ml (1oz), plus one 7.5ml refillable purse spray
• No sticker under the bottle: writings were embossed on the glass, with the batch code painted over (unfortunately, very easy to remove)

Batch codes: until 2004, you will find 4 digits on the box (example: 1234) but 5 digits on the bottom of the bottle — the same 4 digits plus "1" or "2" (example: 12341 or 12342).

......reformulated?

Opium was reformulated several times over the years. According to Rémy F., once employed at L'Oréal (personal communication): "let's consider the EdT during the last years: at least 5 or 6 reformulations occurred between 2000 and 2015. Not to mention EdP and Parfum."

So, if you want to experience something close to the real Opium, make sure to find a bottle dated at least before year 2000. As usual: the older, the better.

It was one of the first fragrances to indicate the allergens list on the box, already in 2003.

YSL was world-famous for confusing labels, bottles and boxes — all mixed up. You will need practice to come to terms with it. Just one example: the so-called "ParfumsCorp" era ended in 1993, yet you will find "ParfumsCorp" labels until 1996. Conversely, the "Sanofi" era began in 1993, but "Sanofi" labels only appeared from 1996 onwards.

To date Opium bottles with accuracy, in many cases you will need box and bottle together. Cross-checking batch codes with barcodes, Green Dots, labels and so on will tell you everything you need.

Put it simply...

The EAN barcode...

If you see the EAN barcode anywhere on the box, the bottle dates from after 1990.

Very difficult to see: the batch code printed on the bottom edge of the "Parfum" boxes — black ink on black background.

Golden, rounded cap? This means years 1991–2003.

Flat, red cap? This means years 2003–2009.

In a few cases it is difficult to understand what we are talking about, because some bottles were produced only for certain markets and unavailable in others.

Believe it or not, a still-sealed vintage traditional "splash" bottle (60ml or 120ml, 2oz or 4oz) is almost impossible to find nowadays, and it is one of the pieces most sought after by collectors.

Part 2: Box and Bottle Styles

SPRAY — Spray EdT Bottles (1977–1991)

1977–1991: "Original" bottle with non-removable cap. "YvesSaintLaurent" written in golden letters over a black background on the bottom of the box. Plain, undecorated bottle. Sizes: 36ml, 69ml, 105ml (1.2oz, 2.3oz, 3.5oz), plus a rare 25ml/0.8oz spray with removable cap. A 135ml/4.5oz bottle with fixed cap was apparently produced for a few markets only.

Spray EdT Bottles (1991–2003)

1991–2003: "Nineties"-style spray bottle with removable golden cap. "YSL" still printed on black background on the bottom of the box. Richly decorated bottle. Sizes: 30ml, 50ml, 100ml (1oz, 1.6oz, 3.3oz). A 20ml/0.7oz EdT spray was apparently produced for a few markets.

Spray Bottles (2003–2009)

2003–2009: "Gucci"-style spray bottle with removable flat red cap. "YvesSaintLaurent" written without a black background on the box. Mildly decorated bottle. Sizes: 30ml, 50ml, 100ml (1oz, 1.6oz, 3.3oz). A 15ml EdT bottle was apparently produced for a few markets only.

Spray Bottles (since 2009)

Since 2009: "L'Oréal-style" box and bottles.

SPLASH BOTTLES — EdT "Splash" Bottles (1977–2003, then discontinued)

Years 1977–2003, then discontinued. Sizes: 60ml and 120ml (2oz, 4oz).

EAU DE PARFUM (since 1991)

Splash and Spray Bottles labelled as "Secret de Parfum"
(launched 1991, discontinued 2003)

"Secret de Parfum", 1991–2003, then discontinued. Sizes: 10ml, 50ml, Spray.

"Secret de Parfum", splash bottle (1991–2003).

Classic Eau de Parfum (2003–2009)

EdP "Gucci-style" bottle (2003–2009), in plastic case.

EdP (since 2009)

EdP "L'Oréal-style" bottle (since 2009).

"Parfum" Bottles

Parfum (1977–2003)

Iconic Opium bottle with tassel. Sizes: 7.5ml, 15ml, 30ml.

Parfum 7.5ml Spray Refillable (1977–2003).

Parfum (2003–2009)

Years 2003–2009: 7.5ml, 15ml, 30ml.

Parfum (since 2009)

Parfum since 2009 ("squared" box).

Part 3: Year-by-Year

Year 1977

Year 1977 leaflet.

Year 1978

EdT spray bottle 69ml / 2.3oz.

Year 1981

Batch 1163 = year 1981.

Year 1982

EdT 60ml splash bottle.

Year 1983

120ml / 4oz. splash bottle with leaflet.

NOTE: the old "80°" lettering.

60ml splash bottle, batch 31371 = year 1983. NOTE: the old "80°" lettering.

Year 1983, again...

EdT Spray bottle, 36ml, batch 33001 = year 1983.

Year 1984

36ml EdT Spray bottles.

Batch 4284 = year 1984.

Year 1984, again... — EdT spray bottle 69ml / 2.3oz.

Batch 4024 = year 1984.

Year 1984, again... — EdT spray bottle 105ml / 3.5oz. (tester)

Notice: no sticker; "105ml" and "3.5oz." engraved on the glass. Batch 4353 painted on the glass.

Year 1985

Parfum 15ml, batch 5270 = year 1985.

Year 1986

Parfum, batch 6179 = year 1986.

Rare 25ml spray bottle, batch 6328 = year 1986.

60ml splash bottle, batch 6244 = year 1986.

Year 1987

Parfum 7.5ml, batch 12381 = year 1987.

60ml splash bottle, batch 7185 = year 1987.

Year 1989

Parfum 7.5ml, batch 90811 = year 1989.

Year 1990

50ml spray bottle, ParfumsCorp label, batch 02741 = year 1990.

Years 1991–1992: new spray bottles with removable golden cap

Sizes: 10ml, 30ml (1oz), 50ml (1.6oz), 100ml (3.3oz) — plus "Secret de Parfum" (splash and spray).

Opium "Secret de Parfum" spray mini-bottle 10ml.

Year 1991

Opium "Secret de Parfum", 50ml / 1.6oz spray bottle, batch 1294.

Opium "Secret de Parfum", batch 1294 = year 1991.

30ml EdT spray bottle, ParfumsCorp label, batch 12681 = year 1991.

Year 1992

The new bottle, richly decorated, with removable golden cap.

30ml EdT bottle with removable golden cap, batch 22671, year 1992

15ml parfum, batch 2162, year 1992

Year 1994

EdT spray 100ml / 3.3oz. bottle, batch 41301 = year 1994

EdT 60ml / 2 oz. splash bottle, batch 42081

"ParfumsCorp" label, batch 4208 = year 1994

Year 1995

120ml/ 4oz. EdT splash bottle, batch 53101 = year 1995

EdT 100 ml / 3.3 oz spray bottle, batch 50861
NOTE: the old "ParfumsCorp"-style label instead of the Sanofi one.

EdT 50 ml / 1.6 oz spray bottle, batch 50821
NOTE: the old "ParfumsCorp"-style label instead of the Sanofi one.

Year 1996

EdT 30ml / 1oz. spray bottle, batch 61442
NOTE: the old "ParfumsCorp"-style label, instead of the Sanofi one.

50ml spray bottle, ParfumCorp label,
batch 62551 = year 1996

50ml spray bottle batch 6273 = year 1996
Note for the first time the "new" SANOFI label

Year 1997

EdT 100ml / 3.3 oz spray bottle, batch 73091 with the Sanofi label

EdT 50ml spray bottle, Sanofi label, batch 72452 = year 1997

Year 1998

Secret de Parfum 10 ml, batch 82011 = year 1998
notice: the obsolete YSL "ParfumsCorp" plastic case

EdT 120ml / 4oz. splash bottle, batch 82261 = year 1998

EdT spray bottle, 50ml / 1.6 oz. , batch 81261

EdT spray bottle 30 ml, batch 81321

Year 1999

EdT 100ml / 3.3oz. spray bottle (Tester), "Sanofi" sticker, batch 91091

EdT 30ml / 1fl. oz, batch 93571

Parfum 30ml / 1oz, batch 91861

Year 2000

EdT, 30 ml Spray, Sanofi label, batch 0096 = year 2000

50ml spray bottle, batch 0152 = year 2000

Splash bottle, 60 ml, Sanofi label, batch 02582 = year 2000

Secret de Parfum, 30ml, batch 00661 = year 2000
note the VERY OLD label ParfumsCorp

Year 2001

EdT Spray, 50 ml
Note the OLD Sanofi label, instead of "Gucci" one, batch code 10021 = year 2001

Year 2002

Splash bottle batch 2330 = year 2002

30ml spray bottle, Gucci label, batch 21501 = year 2002

Year 2003: new "Gucci-era" bottles

(with flat red cap; with plastic EdP spray bottles, with glass EdT spray, mildly-decorated bottles; all splash bottles discontinued; all "Secret de Parfum" bottles discontinued)

NOTICE: the bottom changes its color and it's not BLACK anymore.

EdT, in red box (glass, mildly-decorated bottle)

Eau de Parfum, golden box (in plastic case)

Parfum

Opium "Secret de Parfum", last bottle produced, Gucci label, batch 30871 = year 2003

50ml spray bottle, batch 32341 = year 2003

Year 2004

"Summer Fragrance / Eau d'Ete", batch 40282

15 ml, Edt Spray, Gucci label, batch 42931 = year 2004

Year 2005

EdP bottle 50ml / 1.6 oz., Gucci label, batch 5AAA

Gucci label, batch 5FBA = year 2005

Year 2006

EdP 50 ml / 1.6 oz, batch 6IAA

EdT 50ml / 1.6oz, batch 6EAA

Parfum 7.5 ml, bottom of the external box, batch 6KAA = year 2006

Year 2007

Edt 30 ml, Batch 7IBD = year 2007

EdT, 100ml spray bottle, Gucci label, batch 7DAB = year 2007

Eau de Parfum, 50 ml, batch 7xxx = year 2007

Year 2008

EdP bottle 50ml / 1.6 oz., batch 8BAB

EdT bottle 100ml 3.3 oz, with the B.R.I. L'Oreal label, batch 8BAA = year 2008

Parfum 30ml, batch 8CAA

Year 2009 (last "Gucci"-type bottles)

EdT 30ml /1 oz. batch 9BCA
NOTICE the "new" L'Oreal label with the B.R.I. lettering

50ml spray bottle batch 9IAA = year 2009
Note the B.R.I. lettering

New l'Oreal bottle EdP 90ml, batch code 9KAB = year 2009

Year 2009: new "L'Oreal" bottles.

EdT

EdP

Parfum

Part 4: Advertisements

1977-1982 (Jerry Hall)

1980s

1987 (Linda Evangelista, 1st)

1992 (Nastasia Urbano)

1990s

1993-1995 (Kate Moss, 1st)

1996-1998 (Linda Evangelista, 2nd)

1999 (Natalia Semenova)

2000s

2000 (Sophie Dahl)

2003 (Kate Moss, 2nd)

2006 (Maria Carla Boscono)

2008 (Malgorzata Bela)

2009 (Karen Elson)

2011 (Emily Blunt)

Part 5: FLANKERS

Year 1998: Fraicheur d'Orient

Year 2002: Eau d'Ete / Summer Fragrance

Year 2003: Eau d'Ete / Summer Fragrance

Year 2004: Eau d'Ete / Summer Fragrance

Year 2005: Fleur de Shanghai

Year 2006: 2 Flankers

Fleur Imperiale

Oriental Collector's Edition 2006

Opium Prestige (special bottle)

Year 2007: 3 Flankers

Legendes de Chine

Orchidee de Chine

Orient Extreme

Year 2008: 2 Flankers

Poesie de Chine

Elixir Voluptueux

Collector's Edition 2008

Part 6: The Opium Universe

Necklace

Perfumed Necklace

Parfum Spray 7.5ml refillable + Pochette

Parfum Spray 7.5 ml Refillable, plus Pochette.

Advertising Card

Edt 30 ml splash, "Inro" Bottle

Miniature 7.5ml

Miniature

Miniature, 7.5 ml, year 2002 (Gucci-Era)

Scented Ceramic

Secret de Parfum, Vial plus Tassel Key Ring

Heart-shaped, limited edition year 2007

EdT Limited edition year 1995  

EdT Limited edition year 1995

15th Anniversary Limited Edition Parfum year 1992

15th Anniversary Limited Edition Parfum year 1992

Opium Parfum, limited edition 15ml bottle

Gucci-Era, year 2000s, Parfum 3.5ml

Opium 40th Anniversary limited edition (2017)

---

Part 7: TUTORIAL PICS

---

The rare "Made in USA" 2.3 oz bottle (thanks to Kafkaesque Blog)

The rare "Made in USA" bottle, 1.2 oz (36ml.)

The "Made in Usa" sticker under the spray bottle

The "Made in USA" sticker under the splash bottle.

The rare "Made in USA" leaflet. NOTE: as you can read, the 105 ml (3.5oz) spray bottle and the 120ml (4oz) splash bottle were NOT produced in USA.

The "Made in Usa" leaflet

1980s Spray bottle, 36 ml.

1970s spray bottle, 36 ml (1.2 oz)

Early EdT spray bottle, 69 ml. Note the "80°" sign instead of "80%"

EdT spray bottle, 105 ml

EdT Spray bottle, 105 ml, 3.5 oz (year 1984)

Parfum 7.5 ml rechargeable

Late 1980s, Parfum, 7.5 ml, refill spray

Parfum, 7.5 ml purse spray with Pochette

Rare 25ml / 0.8oz spray bottle (1980s) with removable cap

Another uncommon bottle: 0.7 oz / 20 ml (removable cap) with "ParfumsCorp" label

The classic "ParfumsCorp" label: although "ParfumsCorp" Era lasted from 1986 to 1993, you can see this label used until 1996....and beyond

A typical "Sanofi" label. "Sanofi" Era lasted from 1993 to 1999, but you can see "Sanofi" labels starting in 1996.....

A typical Gucci-label: The Gucci era lasted from 1999 to 2007, but you can see this label since 2001.

1990s Spray bottle, 30 ml, with old "fixed" cap.

Parfum, 15ml, with Gucci label

"Gucci" Parfum bottle, year 2005 ingredients

L'Oreal Parfum bottle, year 2009 ingredients (different from previous pic)

Eau de Toilette, Year 2007 "Ingredients"

---

.....and thanks to all the fans around the world who have supported me in this work.
Love you all,
Laura.

(All pictures provided by friends, from unknown sources; if some copyright is violated, please advise us and we'll remove pictures immediately)

If you found this article helpful,

if you feel the information provided by "Raiders of the Lost Scent" has helped you in any way over the years, then we kindly ask you to make a small donation—completely voluntary—to help us. "Raiders of the Lost Scent" is a completely free site, and always will be. Raiders needs the help of its friends to continue to exist!

"Buy us a coffee" or "Donate via PayPal"

☕ Support us

....and... 

Batch-codes

Year-of-production, 

all-you-need-to-know

about vintage perfumes in the following pages:

-CHANEL perfumes 

-GUERLAIN perfumes 

-YVES SAINT LAURENT perfumes

-CHRISTIAN DIOR  perfumes 

-GIORGIO ARMANI Perfumes

-VAN CLEEF et ARPELS perfumes

-BVLGARI perfumes 

-HERMES perfumes 

-VERSACE perfumes 

-GIVENCHY perfumes 

-GUY LAROCHE perfumes 

-CACHAREL perfumes 

-ROCHAS perfumes 

-JEAN PATOU perfumes 

-LANCOME perfumes 

CARON perfumes

-CALVIN KLEIN perfumes

RALPH LAUREN perfumes 

-JEAN PAUL GAULTIER perfumes 

-SERGE LUTENS perfumes 

-GUCCI perfumes 

-THIERRY MUGLER perfumes 

-CARTIER perfumes

Plus:

Kouros by Yves Saint Laurent, visual guide 

Fahrenheit by Christian Dior, visual guide 

Azzaro pour Homme by Azzaro, visual guide 

Drakkar Noir by Guy Laroche, visual guide

Opium by Yves Saint Laurent, visual guide 

Samsara by Guerlain, visual guide

Egoiste by Chanel, visual guide

and others...

Share this article: WHATSAPP TELEGRAM PINTEREST FACEBOOK REDDIT