Vintage CHANEL perfumes and batch codes: a guide.

The ultimate guide to Chanel perfumes: vintage and modern fragrances explained, with details on historical periods, boxes, bottles, labels, and how to identify authentic Chanel fragrances.

*****Originally published in 2013; 

fully updated on 2026 with new insights and photos*****

Images posted for purely informative and historical purposes. All rights belong to their legitimate owners. Disclaimer: Raiders of the Lost Scent do not sell perfumes — not online and not in stores, and is not engaged in any kind of commercial activity.

(Note: here you will find the traditional 4-numbers batchcodes. For rare Chanel perfumes "Made in USA", and "letters-and-numbers" batchcodes,  READ HERE )

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Chanel perfumes have been a benchmark in the history of fashion and culture throughout the 20th century, and their impact is still strongly felt today. In the 1920s, when Coco Chanel launched the iconic N°5, the perfume world was still rooted in traditional recipes and presentation. N°5 revolutionized the concept of perfume, introducing an innovative formula and minimalist packaging that became iconic. This scent became a symbol of freedom and modernity, representing the emancipated woman of the Roaring Twenties.

In the following decades, the launch of "Pour Monsieur",  N°19, Coco and other perfumes like Egoiste, Cristalle, Allure and Chance solidified Chanel's position as a leader in luxury perfumery. These fragrances not only reflected the spirit of the times but also influenced fashion and pop culture trends. Chanel perfumes are still synonymous with elegance and sophistication, and their influence can be seen in many aspects of contemporary culture.

Decoding Batch Codes
How to interpret the main (“French”) four-digit batchcodes

Chanel is one of the most difficult houses to decipher when attempting to date a perfume. This is due to the fact that its batch codes consist of four numbers that, at first glance, appear to have no fixed reference point. In reality, Chanel employs a system based solely on the progression of months, with no direct indication of the year. The sequence begins at 00, progresses to 99, and then restarts from the beginning, meaning that a full cycle of 99 months corresponds to just over eight years.

Let us clarify how this system works. Chanel bottles carry a four-digit batch code, but only the first two digits are relevant for dating purposes.

For example, if the batch code reads 9510, you should focus exclusively on 95, disregarding the remaining digits.

These first two numbers indicate the month of production and progress sequentially over time. In this example, 95 may correspond to May. Accordingly:

96 = June

97 = July

98 = August

99 = September

Once the sequence reaches 99, it resets:

00 = October

01 = November

02 = December

03 = January

…and so on.

In practical terms, this means that a complete cycle, from 00 to 99, covers roughly eight years, after which the sequence begins again.

So where does the difficulty lie? The problem is that there is no direct reference to the year, either current or past. Are we looking at 1985, 1997, 2003, or 2011? On the basis of the batch code alone, it is impossible to know.

For this reason, you must rely on additional clues found on the box or the bottle in order to date a vintage Chanel fragrance with a reasonable degree of accuracy. It is important to stress that, because there is no built-in correlation with calendar years, absolute certainty is unattainable, unless official documentation from Chanel is available.

That said, by combining this method with other packaging indicators, it is generally possible to trace most Chanel fragrances back to at least 1980.

Let us begin.

Chanel: the main Clues.

The following packaging details provide essential clues for dating Chanel fragrances:

-The marking “EMB” followed by six digits (e.g., EMB 123456) was introduced in 1978 and used thereafter. If this EMB code is absent, the perfume almost certainly dates to before 1978.

-Alcohol content notation: until 1980, alcohol strength was indicated with the symbol “°” (e.g., 80°). After 1980, this was replaced by the “%” symbol (e.g., 80%).

the clues are alcohol as "°" (80°)  and the very tiny EMB code.

This could be dated around 1978-1980

-The barcode appeared on Chanel boxes in 1990. Its presence indicates production after 1990.

-The Green Dot symbol was introduced in 1992, indicating production after 1992.

-The wording “Eau de Toilette / Cologne” printed above the word “Chanel” indicates production before 1995.

-The same wording printed below “Chanel” indicates production from 1995 onward.

-A short ingredient list (typically “alcohol, water, parfum”) appeared approximately between 1998 and 2004.

-A full ingredient list, including allergens, has been used since 2004–2005, indicating production after 2004.

-The additional address lines “Chanel Paris,” “Chanel New York,” and “Neuilly-sur-Seine” began appearing on both boxes and bottle backs in 2005.

-Finally, the batch code provides further—though more technical—information and must be interpreted in conjunction with the elements above.

In practice, if you are short on time, a rough dating can often be established simply by examining the box:

No EMB code → before 1978

Alcohol symbol “ ° ” (instead of “ % ”) → before 1980

Printed barcode → after 1990

Green Dot present → after 1992

Short ingredient list → circa 1998–2003

Full ingredient list → after 2003

Mention of “Neuilly-sur-Seine” → after 2005

By combining these indicators, it is usually possible to arrive at a reasonably accurate timeframe, even in the absence of an explicit year reference.

The wording EMB plus 6 numbers: 

it was adopted in 1978

("1726" is the batch code)

this is the "Greendot", adopted since 1992.

Remember not to confuse bar-code with batch-code: 

these are different things!

This is a Bar-code, it's printed on the box

This is a Batch-code (8401),

engraved under the Bar-code on the box

Batch Code: where to find it.

Chanel batch codes are usually printed on the bottom of the box or engraved on the back of the bottle near the base. On bottles, the code can be subtle and may require gently rotating the bottle under a light source to make it visible.

Batch number is engraved (5410)
on the back side or bottom of the bottle

The clues are: the EMB code and the alcohol percentage as "%". 

No barcode and no batchcode.

Actually it's a vintage box and it could be dated from 1980 to 1990. 

check for a batchcode!

Batch code engraved on the bottom of the box (0113),

without barcode.without greendot.

it could be dated from 1980 to 1990.

How to Read Four-Digit Chanel Batch Codes

Quick Method

1-First, look for external clues on the packaging (barcode, Green Dot, ingredient list, etc.).

2-Next, identify the batch code and focus on the relevant digits.

3-Finally, consult the table below and calculate the most plausible production date.

Please note that in some cases older boxes without modern symbols may have been reused at a later time, so cross-checking multiple indicators is always advisable.

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THE classic ("French") 4-numbers
CHANEL BATCH CODE

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If your perfume shows no identifying clues on the box—no barcode, no Green Dot, and no ingredient list—then it can be dated to the period between 1980 and 1990. The corresponding dates are as follows:

if----then

10xx ---- june 1975

20xx ---- april 1976

30xx ---- february 1977

40xx ---- december 1977

50xx ---- october 1978

60xx ---- august 1979

70xx ---- june 1980

80xx ---- april 1981

90xx ---- february 1982

00xx ---- december 1982

10xx ---- october 1983

20xx ---- august 1984

30xx ---- june 1985

40xx ---- april 1986

50xx ---- february 1987

60xx ---- december 1987

70xx ---- october 1988

80xx ---- august 1989

(...and now the Barcode appears...)

If your perfume has a barcode and/or Green Dot, but does not feature the full ingredient list (including allergens), it can be dated to the period between 1990 and 2004. The corresponding dates are as follows:

if------- then

90xx ---- june 1990

00xx ---- april 1991

10xx ---- february 1992

(in these months the Greendot appears...)

20xx ---- december 1992

30xx ---- october 1993

40xx ---- august 1994

50xx ---- june 1995

60xx ---- april 1996

70xx ---- february 1997

80xx ---- december 1997

90xx ---- october 1998 

(between 1998-2004: short ingredients list, on the box i.e "alcohol, water, perfume") 

00xx ---- august 1999

10xx ---- june 2000

20xx ---- april 2001

30xx ---- february 2002

40xx ---- december 2002

50xx ---- october 2003

if your perfume has:

barcode + greendot + the long ingredient list :
it dates after YEAR 2004

and the dates are: 

if  --------- it means:

60xx ----august 2004

70xx ----june 2005

80xx ----april 2006

90xx ----february 2007  

00xx ----december 2007

10xx ----october 2008

20xx ----august 2009

30xx ----june 2010

40xx ----april 2011

50xx ----february 2012

60xx ----december 2012

70xx ----october 2013

80xx ----august 2014

90xx ----june 2015

last number is 96xx= December 2015, then a reset occurred

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Warning:

Chanel reset its batch-code system at the end of 2015, so this method is reliable only for fragrances produced up to 2015.

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(Let's make a detailed example, going backwards:

70xx: October 2013
69xx: September 2013
68xx: August 2013
67xx: July 2013
66xx: June 2013
65xx: May 2013
64xx: April 2013
63xx: March 2013
62xx: February 2013
61xx: January 2013
60xx: December 2012
59xx: November 2012
58xx: October 2012
57xx: September 2012
56xx: August 2012
55xx: July 2012
54xx: June 2012
53xx: May 2012
52xx: April 2012
51xx: March 2012
50xx: February 2012
and so on)

Reformulations

Identifying reformulations is only possible from 2004 onward. The simplest method is to examine the order in which allergens are listed on the box. When that order changes, a reformulation has almost certainly taken place.

TUTORIAL PICTURES

Antaeus batch 5562, with long list of ingredients date : July, 2012

Antaeus batch 2262 with barcode,  without list of ingredients, date: February 1993

Allure Homme, batch 0109, it was launched in 1999 Date:  September1999.

Antaeus batch 3426 with greendot,  Date: beginning of 1994

Antaeus, batch 7335 without any symbol,  date: beginning of 1989

Antaeus, batch 5506, with longlist of ingredients Date: beginning of 2012 (from Ebay) Pour Monsieur, barcode plus short list of ingredients batch code 5207 = end of 2003 (from ebay) Pour Monsieur, with long list of ingredients generic date = after 2004 Antaeus, batch 6727, without any symbol date : July,1988 Antaeus, batch 2262, with barcode, without long list of ingredients Date: mid of 1993 Antaeus, batch 9146, with barcode, but without greendot  Date: mid of 1990.

Antaeus, batch 8501, with all symbols plus long list of ingredients  plus wording Chanel Paris Chanel NewYork, date: end of 2006

(From Etsy) Chanel Nr 19, batch 4911 = year 1986

Pour Monsieur, batch 5410, without any symbol on the box date: mid of 1987

Egoiste, batch 9408, with barcode, without greendot Date: end of 1990 Egoiste, with barcode and greendot, without ingredients, batch 4116, date: mid of 1994 (from basenotes) Egoiste, without greendot. batch code 0907 date: beginning of 1991

Chanel Nr.5, batch 6081, long list of ingredients 
wording Chanel Paris, Chanel NewYork
Date: end of 2012

Nr.5, batch 0608, with barcode, without list of ingredients
Date:  end of 1991 

extra clues : Nr. 5 Bottles, through decades

Antaeus, batch 1726, no symbols.
Date:  mid 1984

Antaeus, batch 4514, no symbols
actually = mid of 1986
(thanks to Andrea Bissoli)

From Ebay, Antaeus, short list of ingredients,
batch 4403
Date:  beginning of 2003

(thanks to Noggs from Basenotes)
Antaeus, short list of ingredients,
batch nr. 1702
date = beginning of 2002 

Nr.5, batch 6106, with barcode and greendot,
without long list of ingredients
actually = mid of 1996

Platinum Egoiste, batch 8715, with barcode
without long list of ingredients
Date: mid of 1998.

Allure, batch 1402,  with longlist of ingredients
Date: beginning of 2009

(From Ebay) Allure, with long list of ingredients
batch code 5301, date : mid of 2012.

from Ebay, Coco, long list of ingredients
batch code 4527 , date:  end of 2011

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....and... 

Batch-codes

Year-of-production, 

all-you-need-to-know

about vintage perfumes in the following pages:

-GUERLAIN perfumes ( here )

-YVES SAINT LAURENT perfumes ( here )

-CHRISTIAN DIOR  perfumes  ( here )

-GIORGIO ARMANI Perfumes ( here )

-VAN CLEEF et ARPELS perfumes ( here )

-BVLGARI perfumes ( here )

-HERMES perfumes ( here )

-VERSACE perfumes ( here )

-GIVENCHY perfumes ( here )

-GUY LAROCHE perfumes (here) 

-CACHAREL perfumes ( here )

-ROCHAS perfumes (here) 

-JEAN PATOU perfumes (here)

-LANCOME perfumes (here)

-CARON perfumes (here)

-CALVIN KLEIN perfumes (here)

-RALPH LAUREN perfumes (here)

-JEAN PAUL GAULTIER perfumes (here)

-SERGE LUTENS perfumes (here)

-GUCCI perfumes (here)

Plus:

Kouros by Yves Saint Laurent, visual guide (here)

Fahrenheit by Christian Dior, visual guide  (here)

Azzaro pour Homme by Azzaro, visual guide (here)

Drakkar Noir by Guy Laroche, visual guide (here)

Opium by Yves Saint Laurent, visual guide (here)

Samsara by Guerlain, visual guide (here) 

and others..