Thursday, March 3, 2022

A letter from an ex-CHANEL employee (decoding the old CHANEL batch codes).

Vintage Chanel batch codes explained

(Well, here it is. One of the most important articles Andre tried to write. Never been able to post it as an article, so we post it as "unfinished". The keypoint is How to date Chanel perfumes produced in the world, with apparently impossible-to-decipher batchcodes. Luckily we found an old -now retired- Chanel employee who explained us how to solve the mystery: Chanel used five different batchcodes in the same time!)

Please pardon us, received first in French, then translated in Italian, re-translated in English. Last corrections dated June 2016. A few pictures added later for a better comprehension.

"Hi Andre!

I received your request through our mutual friend XXXX. You ask me if I can help you in decrypting the Chanel batchcodes that were used during the 70s, 80s and 90s around the world.

Actually, many years have passed, I worked in the Chanel factory in New Jersey too, well, many years ago! But I still remember something. I read your article on Chanel 4-numbers batchcodes, yes, it's correct; it shifted month-by-month and repeated every 8 years (from 00 to 99, then restarted).

Well, in America -and outside Europe- the situation was a bit different; codes were partially based on the French ones or completely different, and now I will try to explain how Chanel batchcodes worked.

Chanel codes are so difficult to understand for a simple reason: we used FIVE DIFFERENT BATCHCODES at the same time. If you don't understand how they work, you are lost. So, the first thing to be aware of is to recognize the different types of code.

The amazing thing is that you will eventually discover how easy it is to understand and use. At the end you will be able to date every perfume! Let's start!

Before starting, keep in mind one thing: in many cases the batch codes were written with ink on the bottom of the bottles, and on wrapping cellophane... and they could be erased very easily.

The first batchcode

It's the main one, the French, classic 4-numbers batchcode; you have to check only the first two numbers.

These numbers change each month (just an example: 00 is "January", 01 is "February", 03 is "March", etc., when arrived at 99 - i.e. 8 years later - it restarted). The bad thing is that there are no info about years, so you must rely on other clues. Labels, barcodes, list of ingredients... nothing new under the sun.

An extensive discussion on this batchcode from 1975 to 2015 can be found here.

The second batchcode

It consists of 3 digits: 2 numbers + a letter (example: 75S, 83F, 12Q, 04T, or 92P).

It is basically similar to the French one. We have to consider only the numbers, which "shift" every month (00, 01, 02, 03, etc.); the code repeats every 8 years. Obviously, it is impossible to know the year of production if there are no other clues such as the box, the barcode, etc.

(As previously noted, how to use classic Chanel codes, read here.)

A few examples:

Vintage Chanel batch codes explained
Batch 10K = year 1975
Vintage Chanel batch codes explained
Batch 64H = 1979, December
Vintage Chanel batch codes explained
Batch 76U = 1980, December
Vintage Chanel batch codes explained
Batch 79Q = 1981 March
Vintage Chanel batch codes explained
Batch 06Q = 1983, June.
Vintage Chanel batch codes explained
Batch 01U = 1983, January

Let's go on...

The third batch code: 11-digits on the box

This is important when you can only check the box. It might seem like something impossible, but, wait, it is very simple indeed: remove the first two digits, and consider only the third-fourth-fifth-sixth number: these are the numbers of the French, classical batchcode. That's all!

Vintage Chanel batch codes explained

Remove first and second number, and consider third-to-sixth only...

Vintage Chanel batch codes explained
...et voila! Batch code on the bottle is 4023 = year 1977 (or 1986)

The Fourth Batch Code

Pay attention now: there is another 3-digits batch code. But it's "Two letters-One number". Example: CF4, or GA1, or TE2, or PB1... This is the most difficult.

First letter is the year. Follow this scheme:

  • 1977 = A
  • 1978 = B
  • 1979 = C
  • 1980 = D
  • 1981 = E
  • 1982 = F
  • 1983 = G
  • 1984 = H
  • 1985 = I
  • 1986 = J
  • 1987 = K
  • 1988 = L
  • 1989 = M
  • 1990 = N
  • 1991 = O
  • 1992 = P
  • 1993 = Q
  • 1994 = R
  • 1995 = S
  • 1996 = T
  • 1997 = U
  • 1998 = V
  • 1999 = W
  • 2000 = X
  • 2001 = Y
  • 2002 = Z

A few examples:

Batch BA1
Batch BA1 = year 1978

Batch JH1
Batch JH1 = year 1986

Batch PA1 1992

Batch PA1 = year 1992

Batch PK1 1992

Batch PK1 = year 1992

Batch QC1 1993

Batch QC1 = year 1993

Batch SB1 1995

Batch SB1 = year 1995

Batch WK1 1999

Batch WK1 = year 1999

Batch XA1 2000

Batch XA1 = year 2000

The Fifth Batchcode

And finally, here is the fifth batchcode. Apparently it's an unknown, mysterious 4-digit code: 3 letters + 1 number (example: PAB1, or PFG2, or PSE3...).

Basically it's a variation of the third one, with the letter "P" always at first place. So, put simply, remove the letter "P" and you will obtain the code.

Batch PKF1

Batch PKF1 = i.e. KF1 = year 1987

Batch PJF1

Batch PJF1 = i.e. JF1 = year 1986



Vintage Chanel batch codes explained
Batch PMH1 = i.e. MH1 = year 1989


Vintage Chanel batch codes explained
Batch PWB2 = i.e. WB2 = year 1999


...and that's all! Hope it can help you!


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Thanks to : Grace Hummel , Kafkaesque, Alfarom, and all friends from Basenotes and Fragrantica. 

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....and... 
Batch-codes
Year-of-production, 
all-you-need-to-know
about vintage perfumes in the following pages:


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5 comments:

  1. Que bueno que volviste a escribir! Saludos desde Argentina!!!

    ReplyDelete
  2. Thank you so much for your amazing work here.

    ReplyDelete
  3. Thankuuu just bought a vintage no5 edc recently❤️❤️❤️

    ReplyDelete
  4. Thanks! My Cristalle bottle has PKC1 code written with ink on the bottom. Now I know it’s 1987:)

    ReplyDelete

Keep in mind that it is nearly impossible to determine whether a perfume is authentic or fake, based on the description alone. It is extremely difficult to tell, even with photographs. Fake or counterfeit perfume manufacturers have reached such a high level of sophistication that it is impossible to determine the authenticity of a perfume without actually holding it in your hands.