(We are going to illustrate here the notes taken in 2015, relating to an article about Chanel Egoiste "...to be published in future". It can be fragmented and incomplete, nevertheless we think that even after so many years the information provided can be useful for many enthusiasts and collectors. Enjoy the reading. Old friends from Raiders of the Lost Scent)
The Beginning, as an experiment: Bois Noir (1987)
In the mid-80s, perfumer Jacques Polge had the idea of creating a new masculine perfume entirely based around the note of sandalwood, and named it "Bois Noir".
It had a very limited circulation (1987-1989), and was essentially the masculine counterpart of "Bois des Iles" (a feminine perfume launched in 1926). It was a scent sold only in Chanel boutiques, and it gained great appreciation, so then Chanel decided to produce it on a large scale.
It seems that the name "Bois Noir" was not "strong" enough for the world market, because Chanel wanted an outrageous, provocative, shocking name, so they chose the word "Egoiste" and paid for rights (actually, "Egoiste" was a magazine).
Basically, Bois Noir and Egoiste are the same scent: today Bois Noir is of interest as an item for collectors.
The scent: Egoiste (1990)
Egoiste was a very peculiar "woody" scent, far from the stereotypes ("Powerhouses") of the 70s and 80s.
One of the most interesting features of Egoiste is its rich note of creamy sandalwood, which is considered among the best ever made. Indeed, Egoiste is still considered a sandalwood masterpiece nowadays.
Jacques Polge used an high amount of natural sandalwood, mixed with minor quantities of several types of artificial sandalwoods (Sandalore, Ebanol, and others). He did so in order to always have the same sandalwood note (twisting the amount of synthetics), regardless of the availability of raw material, that was becoming more and more difficult to obtain.
Egoiste was launched in Europe (april 1990), then in Japan and USA (spring 1991) and finally in Australia (autumn 1992), using slightly different packaging.
Chanel Egoiste was launched as an AfterShave and Eau de Toilette:
- 50ml (1.7oz), 100ml (3.3oz) Spray/Vaporisateur bottles
- 75ml (2.5oz), 125ml (4.2oz), 250ml (8.4oz) Splash bottles
Unfortunately for Chanel, after the initial enthusiasm, Egoiste was not a great sales success. It is interesting to note that the TV commercial was a huge success and is still remembered even more than the perfume.
The Flanker: Egoiste Cologne Concentree (1992)
Due to poor sales in the USA, Chanel tried to revamp the perfume with a "flanker," produced in the USA and targeted to the US market: Egoiste Cologne Concentrèe (1992), characterized by a heavier sandalwood note.
It's pretty similar to the original, and, again, it was not very successful. (Available in 50ml/100ml spray; and 75ml/125ml splash).
Early splash bottle Made in USA
Late spray bottle Made in USA
The follow up: "Platinum" (1993)
Despite all efforts, Egoiste was not a huge success, so, in an attempt to revitalize sales, another flanker followed: "Egoiste Platinum", in 1993. Curiously, despite the similar name, it is a completely different scent. It's somewhat "metallic," fougère-style, and a modern scent even today.
"Egoiste Platinum" was much more successful than Egoiste, and after a few years, in 1998, it was renamed "Platinum Egoiste". Nowadays Platinum is more remembered than Egoiste: it's one of the rare examples where a "flanker" is more popular than the original.
Platinum Egoiste (since 1998)
TRIVIA: EGOISTE or L'EGOISTE?
No, it isn't a fake. Chanel had troubles in exporting Egoiste in Australia, New Zealand and Britain, because "Egoiste" was a registered brand. So, avoiding legal issues, it was launched as "L'Egoiste".
"L'Egoiste" bottles report the line "Chanel, London" and/or "Chanel W1X3DA" on the box and/or the bottle.
  note the line Chanel (or London)WX13DA -------------------------------TRIVIA Chanel discontinued all splash bottles during years 2008 and 2009 (relatively late compared to the other manufacturers), so it's possible to find splash bottles dated back to 2006,2007,2008.... |
----------------------- TRIVIA Egoiste was marketed in at least three different packagings (if not more...), each for each geographical area. 1) The first and main packaging -aimed at European markets and a few international ones- has the indication "Made in France", and is characterized by a batch code of 4 numbers, on the bottom of the box and on the back of the bottle. 2) The second packaging it was made in the USA, in the New Jersey factory, and shows the indication "Made in USA" and/or "Chanel New York Inc. ", has a batch code of three digits (letters and/or numbers), and reports alcohol, fragrance, and dyes.   3) The third packaging was made for UK and Oceania, the scent was rebranded "L'Egoiste" for copyright issues, and reports the line "Chanel London" or "Chanel W1X 3DA". Four-numbers batch codes, usually applied with a sticker.  English packaging: note the line Chanel London WX13DA Later, over the years, there were other changes in the design, so that in the end we have an huge number of different boxes and bottles. Unfortunately, these different packagings have encouraged the proliferation of fakes, which turn out to be much more common than the originals. Be very careful when buying a Chanel perfume! |
TRIVIA
FADING LETTERS AND STICKERS
-------------------------------------------------------
dissecting BOXES and BOTTLES
(only for main packaging : "Made in France")
--------------------------------------------------------
1) on the box you can read EGOISTE
without the line "pour Homme",
2) the line "Eau de Toilette" or "After shave/Après rasage"
is written above the word CHANEL
SPLASH
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The SECOND version
("Pour Homme", years 1994-1998)
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
The THIRD version
("Alcohol, Aqua, Parfum", years 1998-2004)
1) You can read the short list of ingredients
(i.e. "Alcohol, Aqua, Parfum") on the box.
2) During years 2003 and 2004 you could read
the long ingredients list on the box
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The FOURTH version ("Neuilly sur Seine", 2005 - 2014)
- The long list of ingredients/allergens appears on the back of the box.
- The new line "Neuilly sur Seine" appears somewhere on the box and bottle.
Remember: During years 2008-2009 Chanel discontinues all splash bottles.
SPLASH
Splash bottle 75ml
Splash bottle, back of the box with the long list of allergens and "Neuilly sur Seine"
On the back of the bottle there are etched new lines including "Neuilly sur Seine"
VAPORISATEUR / SPRAY
100ml vaporisateur spray, year 2009
The FIFTH version ("almost-square 50ml and 100ml bottles", since 2015)
- New, almost-square bottles, vaporisateur/spray only.
- Sizes: 50 ml (1.7oz) and 100 ml (3.4oz).
- All other bottles discontinued.
The new, almost-square bottle, since 2015
Fifth version, bottom of the box (since 2015)
Fifth version, year 2015. Back of the box.
TRIVIA: "PLATINUM"
A few facts about "Platinum Egoiste". Actually, it deserves a separate discussion, because over the years it has been more successful than Egoiste.
- Egoiste Platinum (1993-1998)
- Platinum Egoiste (since 1998)
Versioning Guide:
- First Version (1993-1994): "Egoiste Platinum" with the line "Apres rasage / Eau de toilette" above the word Chanel.
- Second Version (1994-1998): "Egoiste Platinum" with the line "Apres rasage / eau de toilette" below the word Chanel.
- Third Version (1998-2015): "Platinum Egoiste".
- Fourth Version (since 2015): "Platinum Egoiste" in almost-square bottles.
Egoiste Platinum, early bottles, first version (1993-1994)
Egoiste Platinum, 125ml splash, second version (1994-1998)
TRIVIA: Interested in Egoiste? Read here:
Did you know?
A curious misunderstanding: many people think Egoiste has a strong cinnamon note, alongside the sandalwood. Actually, as Chanel has repeatedly stated, there is no cinnamon note.
TRIVIA: How to recognize Chanel batch codes?
TRIVIA: Reformulations
Reformulations? This is a difficult question. From 1990 to 2003, you have to rely on your nose only.
In an old interview, a Chanel spokesperson stated that by "adjusting" the quantities of different sandalwoods, the perfume always remained the same. Some people disagree, while others say that Egoiste has remained more or less the same.
Since 2003-2004, you can look at the long list of "ingredients" on the box to observe changes in substances or their order, though unfortunately, Chanel does not show a real formula code.
EGOISTE
The formula was stable between 2004 and 2009. A reformulation occurred in 2010 (benzyl alcohol shifted to the last line). No further differences appeared between 2011 and 2015.
PLATINUM EGOISTE
The formula was stable between 2004 and 2010. A reformulation occurred in 2011 (limonene, linalool, and citral appeared in the first line).
Egoiste, 100ml, year 2005
Egoiste, 100ml, year 2015
Platinum Egoiste, year 2004
Platinum Egoiste, year 2015
Exhibition: just a few bottles
50ml spray, batch 93xx = 1990, September
125 ml splash, batch 94xx = 1990, October
50ml spray, batch 41xx = 1994, September
 | ||
75 ml splash, batch 09xx = 2008, September
|
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| 50 ml spray, batch 25xx = 2010, January |
-GUY LAROCHE perfumes (here)
-CACHAREL perfumes ( here )
-ROCHAS perfumes (here)
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