A review of Patou Pour Homme (1980), one of the greatest discontinued vintage men’s fragrances ever created, composed by Jean Kerléo for Jean Patou.
There are certain perfumes whose grandeur invites reverence. Patou Pour Homme (1980) by Jean Patou is unquestionably one of them. In this review, we explore one of the most accomplished and aristocratic vintage men’s fragrances of the late twentieth century: a true masterpiece and today one of the most coveted discontinued men’s perfumes ever created.
Composed by the legendary Jean Kerléo at the height of his artistic maturity, this 1980 release represents the pinnacle of classic haute parfumerie. Noble, impeccably balanced, and built with exceptional raw materials,
Patou Pour Homme remains a benchmark of old-school luxury men’s cologne design.
A Luxury Vintage Men’s Cologne.
From the very first moments, Patou Pour Homme declares its majesty. The opening is a breathtaking aromatic-herbal accord: clary sage and fine lavender forming a cool backbone, sharpened by vibrant basil and black pepper.
The effect is vivid and powerful, yet impeccably mannered. This is not loud masculinity; it is quiet authority. From the start, it smells unmistakably expensive. It's a statement of true haute parfumerie.
Within minutes, the fragrance unfolds into a majestic woody-amber heart. Dark patchouli intertwines with bourbon vetiver and cedarwood, enriched by spicy geranium and fir balsam.
Beneath the surface lies a subtle whisper of castoreum and civet, lending a warm, leathery sensuality that feels refined rather than animalic. A generous tonka-coumarin facet gradually rises, evoking the memory of unsmoked tobacco leaves.
The construction feels almost architectural: every note placed with deliberation, every transition seamless.
The dry-down is nothing short of magnificent. Truly magnificent. Creamy sandalwood of exceptional quality merges with labdanum, amber touched with natural vanilla warmth, and a mossy chypre foundation that anchors the entire composition in classical elegance.
The structure could be described as a refined chypre-fougère hybrid: a rare genre in modern perfumery. Longevity is remarkable for a vintage eau de toilette: easily seven hours on skin, with projection in the first few hours and a sillage that remains elegant, never intrusive.
Interestingly, Patou Pour Homme does not feel “dated” in any negative sense. Rather, it exudes a level of compositional play and raw material quality that contemporary releases, often constrained by reformulations and regulatory limitations, rarely achieve.
It is a benchmark of old-school luxury men’s fragrance design, when budgets, naturals, and artistic freedom allowed perfumers to create without any compromise.
A collector's grail.
Among the great masculine icons of its era, it stands comfortably beside the finest offerings from Chanel, Guerlain, Christian Dior and Yves Saint Laurent, yet it possesses a unique depth that make it instantly recognizable to the trained nose. It embodies the archetype of charisma: quiet confidence and intellectual presence.
Now long discontinued and increasingly scarce, this scent has achieved near-mythic status. For vintage fragrance collectors and serious connoisseurs of classic perfumery, Patou Pour Homme is not merely desirable, it is essential.
A pristine, well-preserved bottle is considered a holy grail acquisition, often commanding premium prices on the market. In the hierarchy of rare discontinued men’s fragrances, it represents one of the uppermost tier: a reference point against which other vintage masculines are measured.
A masterpiece in perfumery.
To experience it today is to encounter a vanished era of uncompromising craftsmanship. Few fragrances communicate power, elegance, depth, and olfactory intelligence with such effortless authority. For collectors, historians of perfumery, and lovers of true haute parfumerie, Patou Pour Homme remains not simply an icon but the standard of excellence.
More about vintage Jean Patou perfumes: batch-codes, bottles, labels, and boxes.
Years of production: from 1980 to mid-90s
EdT splash 60ml, 120ml.
-Not being a top-selling fragrance, in the 1990s Patou pour Homme was sold at an absolutely affordable price. Its list price was exactly on par with that of other, much less renowned perfumes.
-The mechanism for opening the cap in the splash bottle was absolutely unique, a twist followed by a snap.
-As in other Jean Patou perfumes, a very thin gold leaf is used for the top layer of the cap of the EdT bottle.
Share this article:WHATSAPP TELEGRAM PINTEREST FACEBOOK REDDIT
About the Authors: We are a collective of fragrance specialists and historians based in Italy, France and Switzerland, dedicated to the study and preservation of olfactory heritage. Founded in 2009, our project is rooted in a family lineage in the art of perfumery dating back to 1919. Bringing over a century of combined expertise to every review, we provide insights into the world of vintage scents. Every article is a result of research and experience with original specimens.
Images posted for purely informative and historical purposes. All rights belong to their legitimate owners. Please note: Raiders of the Lost Scent is an independent editorial platform. We are not involved in the commercial trade of perfumes and do not sell fragrances.
Share this article: WHATSAPP TELEGRAM PINTEREST FACEBOOK REDDIT
Hello i have a few questions about this one. I have asked another question on the other Patou batch code page.
ReplyDeleteThere are 3 versions i have seen of this, edt, aftershave and cologne. I have all 3, a 120ml aftershave, if is beautiful!, a 10ml cologne and only a decant of the edt, however i will have a 60ml of the edt soon.
My first question is, the aftershave of this is almost as strong as the edt in the drydown. Why am i getting a sharper opening in the edt, but then a stronger, creamy drydown with the aftershave?
And 2nd question is why am i seeing 10ml splash?
A 60ml cologne with gold cap top?
A 60ml edt with black cap? Are some of these fakes? Or did these versions actually exist?
Good morning. The term 'Cologne' simply indicates that the bottle was intended for the American market. At the time, fragrances were imported from France for US subsidiaries, and the packaging was labeled 'Cologne' instead of 'Eau de Toilette'. Therefore, the Cologne and Eau de Toilette versions are exactly the same juice.Regarding the aftershave: its slightly greenish liquid differs from the brandy-colored Eau de Toilette due to a different formulation. Consequently, you may notice a slight variation in the scent profile.As for the 10 ml splash bottles, these are simply miniatures, which were also produced as 2 ml vials.To address your most critical question: the Eau de Toilette and Cologne bottles feature a gold-topped cap, whereas the aftershave features a solid black cap. If you encounter an Eau de Toilette with a black cap, it means the seller has swapped or replaced the original cap. While this does not necessarily mean the fragrance is counterfeit, you should proceed with caution; if you decide to resell it, buyers will undoubtedly question why an Eau de Toilette has a black cap instead of a gold one.I hope this clarifies everything. Best regards!
DeleteThank you very much for taking the time to respond... this is very intriguing to me now.
ReplyDeleteI messaged the guy on ebay and he swears they are legit.
When my bottle arrives i will compare it to how it smells side by side with the other ones
There is also a guy on youtube named bel air scents and his edt is also black cap. Very interesting indeed
Update: My other 60ml splash came in... black cap, the batch code appears to be 0001QHF and it has a bar code, whereas my older one does not have a bar code..So this is probably an early 90s batch. Does indeed smell like Patou pour homme, which was my biggest concern
ReplyDelete