Batchcodes, boxes, labels and everything you need to identify old and discontinued Ralph Lauren perfumes.
Ralph Lauren vintage fragrances: a complicate story.
About Calvin Klein: Saunders suggests to ask Piatigorsky, OK. I asked Saunders if he remembers anything about the Ralph Lauren batchcodes or methods for dating vintage RL perfumes.
Saunders says he remembers just a few things, many years have passed and he has vague memories. The situation was very messed up with RL perfumes.
Saunders remembers a couple of stories that clearly explains the situation they were in.... here it is: at a certain point dealing with "Ralph Lauren Polo Sport Women", they found themselves faced with three, four different batchcodes.
These batchcodes had become so confusing and incomprehensible, thus they had to change batchcodes (this aspect needs to be explored further ).
The other story: at a certain point in the production of "Polo" and "Safari for Men", there was a stock of old stickers and boxes left. Well, they continued to use them until ran out.
This means that the batchcode was up to date, ...but the labels on the bottle (and/or the box) were from 5-6 years old: i.e, stickers were outdated.
Really confusing. (to investigate further). Saunders says the scent he remembers best is Polo Crest, because he worked on the marketing personally. Polo Crest: launched in 1991, discontinued in 1999, and underwent a reformulation in the middle. OK.
Ralph Lauren "Made in France" and "Made in USA".
Saunders says that before understanding batchcodes you need to understand the timeline of labels, because it helps a lot.
First thing to do: Keep in mind that there are Ralph Lauren perfumes "made in USA" and those "made in France". So, the first thing to do is "check" the country: France or USA? (Saunders doesn't remember if there was a production line in UK too, i.e. a "made in UK", to investigate further).
Perfumes "made in France" are relatively easy to date. They have the classic batchcodes used by L'Oreal, for example those of Guy Laroche. Exactly the same. (i.e. SBxx or UBxx = 1982, SCxx or UCxx=1983, SDxx or UDxx=1984, SExx or UExx = 1985 etc. )
There are a lot more problems with "made in USA" bottles.
There are batchcodes with 3,4,5,6 or even more digits, although the most common were 3-digits batchcode.
Ralph Lauren Timeline.
So, step-by-step......
this is the AMERICAN TIMELINE -and labels- according to Saunders:
very, very roughly:
1978-1984: "Warner/Lauren"
1984-1987: "Warner/Cosmair"
1987-1990: "Designer Fragrance Div./Cosmair"
1990-2000: "Cosmair"
2000-onwards: "Luxury Products LLC" (or "L'Oreal USA")
and remember that stickers/ labels could be "outdated": it's easy to find bottles batchcoded "year 2005", say, with more ancient "Cosmair" labels (instead of "Luxury Products" ones).
Ralph Lauren Labels.
1978 - WARNER/LAUREN
Launch of first Ralph Lauren fragrances: LAUREN and POLO, marketed by WARNER COSMETICS. Fragrances are usually labelled: "Warner/Lauren".
1984-1987 - WARNER/COSMAIR
1987-1990 DESIGNER FRAGRANCES
1991 -2000 : COSMAIR
all fragrances simply labelled : "COSMAIR" (no "Warner", no "Designer Fragrances" wordings).
I point out to Saunders the existence of some bottles with the "UTIF MI 294" italian label, quite strange. Saunders tells me not to pay too much attention, it is an old certification, dating back to the '80s, which has no longer been updated, and it's quite confusing.
Better to rely on "Warner", "Designer Fragrances" and "Cosmair" labels.
(Beware! be careful: as Saunders said, some perfumes, for example Polo and Safari for Men, may have old labels on new bottles. so you can easily find modern batchcodes with old labels.)
2000 and beyond -
"Luxury Products LLC" (or: L'Oreal USA).
All fragrances now labelled "Luxury Products LLC", (actually, Luxury Product LLC is the "new" name of Cosmair) or L'Oreal USA.
YEARS of LAUNCH:
1978: LAUREN and POLO
1979: CHAPS and TUXEDO
1984: TUXEDO DELICATE
1985: MONOGRAM and CHAPS MUSK
1990: SAFARI
1991: POLO CREST
1992: SAFARI FOR MEN
1993: POLO SPORT
1996: POLO SPORT WOMEN
1998: ROMANCE
1999: ROMANCE FOR MEN
2000: RALPH
2001: GLAMOROUS
BATCHCODES: different styles.
A bit confusing here....Saunders says when you find a three or four digit batchcode ending with a number (e.g AB1 or DS2 ore DLZ3 or FHE4 or KJ5 ) that final number is the YEAR (1981 or 1991, 1982 or 1992, 1983 or 1993.... according to the "Warner" or "Cosmair" or "Division Fragrance" label). Okay.
IMPORTANT: Saunders says he is reasonably sure that last time these "short" batchcodes were used was in 1996 (so remember: 3-4 digits batchcodes lasted until 1996).
...when you find two or three numbers in a row, you have to check the letter immediately before the numbers (e.g., or S123, or GU145X, or FB124, or 10C321, or FT50B)
and these are the years:
S= 1997
T= 1998
U=1999
V=2000
W=2001
X=2002
Y=2003
A=2004 (letter Z apparently not used)
REFORMULATIONS
Here, Saunders can only speculate, based on his memories. there is no certainty. DO NOT consider it as certain. Anyway he does not give importance to reformulations, at least until year 2000.
Here:
POLO : original formula, plus TWO reformulations until year 2000. Total: 3 formulas between 1978 and 2000
POLO CREST: original formula, plus ONE reformulation. Total 2 formulas between 1991 and 1999.
Apart this, remember: "the older, the better". After year 2000: cheapening formulas, changing materials, etc.
A FEW EXPLANATORY PICS
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| POLO, a typical "Made in France" splash bottle, batch SD1H = year 1984 |
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| POLO "Made in France", spray bottle, batch UK1A = year 1989 |
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| LAUREN, label WARNER/LAUREN batch DQ2 = year 1982 |
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| POLO , label WARNER/LAUREN batch FH2 = year 1982 |
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| CHAPS MUSK, label WARNER/COSMAIR batch GL5 = year 1985 |
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| POLO, label WARNER/COSMAIR batch FI5 = year 1985 |
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| CHAPS MUSK, label WARNER/COSMAIR, batch BU6= year 1986 |
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| POLO, label WARNER/COSMAIR, batch FV6 = year 1986 |
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| MONOGRAM, label WARNER/COSMAIR batch CB6 = year 1986 |
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| MONOGRAM, label Warner/Cosmair batch GJM7 = year 1987 |
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| POLO, label "Designer Fragrances div.", batch OJR7 = year 1987 |
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| POLO, label "Designer Fragrance Div" batch CZ8 = year 1988 |
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| POLO, label "Designer Fragrances div.", batch DP9 = year 1989 |
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| POLO, label "Designer Fragrance" batch ODK0 = year 1990 |
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| POLO CREST, label COSMAIR batch JQ1 = year 1991 |
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| POLO CREST, label COSMAIR batch GDH2 = year 1992 |
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| POLO CREST , label COSMAIR, batch GJ3 = year 1993 |
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| POLO CREST, label COSMAIR batch D35 = year 1995 |
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| POLO SPORT WOMAN batch KX6 = year 1996 |
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| POLO, label COSMAIR batch LB6 = year 1996 |
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| POLO CREST, label COSMAIR batch GS050 = year 1997 |
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| POLO CREST, label COSMAIR batch GU232X = year 1999 |
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| POLO SPORT WOMEN batchode: *V253 = year 2000 |
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| POLO, label COSMAIR batch GV038X = year 2000 |
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| GLAMOROUS batch 7X009 = year 2002 |
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| CHAPS, label L'Oreal USA batch 7Y148 = year 2003 |
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| GLAMOROUS, label LUXURY PRODUCTS LLC, batch 7A014 = year 2004 |
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| POLO SPORT , label LUXURY PRODUCT LLC batch 7A189 = yrear 2004 |
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| BEWARE: SAFARI FOR MAN (COSMAIR LABEL OUTDATED) batch 7C046 = year 2006 |
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| BEWARE Safari for Men COSMAIR LABEL OUTDATED batch *W347 = year 2001 |
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I have an old cologne and as bottle, with the writing gold Warner/lauren ltd on the retro of the bottle, no plastic label and painted code FD0 . Are early 80’s ? Thanks
ReplyDeleteYes! it's 1980! Congratulations! Greetings, Enzo.
DeleteThanks for posting this informative blog update!
ReplyDeleteQue alegria verte escribir de nuevo! Aqui en Argentina valoramos mucho tu informacion! Tienes instagram?
ReplyDeleteIs there any information about the production of Lauren in Mexico? I have an estate sale find I'd like to date. The bottle and box are in English and Spanish, and the sticker on the bottle is stamped with "82" on the left and "1" on the right. It appears the "natural spray cologne/colonia en atomizador" was made by Cosbel for Conceptos Cosmeticos; Cosbel is affiliated with L'Oreal today. Everything about this obviously vintage bottle "hecho en mexico" appears legitimate--I just can't find anything about Mexican production. There is no barcode. Any help is appreciated!
ReplyDeleteHi Amy, it is possible Ralph Lauren had a production/distribution facility in Mexico. The fact there isn't a barcode on the box, well, it means you have probably a 1980s bottle in your hands. Good and rare finding! Enzo
DeleteI have a vintage safari (hopefully) with the batches FM2 ,BUT THE DATE ON THE BOTTLE SAYS 1991,could this be fake?
ReplyDeleteNot necessarily! It's normal for the dates on the labels and boxes to be older than the batch codes! First, a bottle/box with the 1991 mark, and then the perfume with the 1992 batch code ; that's ok! Greetings, Laura
DeleteDarn it! I got a bottle of Safari with the Cosmair label, but the batch code is 18F802L, meaning it was produced in 2009! Darn... I got unknowingly duped... :-( I was wondering why it felt so weak. Thank you for the information as always <3
ReplyDeleteI have a bottle of Chaps, but the sticker on the bottom says WARNER WESTERN FRAGANCES, and the code is 9L4084. Could it be from 1979? I've never seen one with that address.THANKS!
ReplyDeleteHi, I never saw such a batchcode but it could be a very early bottle from 1979, because "Warner Western Fragrances" label is not so common. greetings, Enzo
DeleteThanks Enzo, I'd be happy to send you some photos of this strange first version bottle to add to this fantastic post!
DeleteAre splash bottles dated/labeled the same. I recently made an ebay purchase of what I read correctly to be a spray bottle. I recieved a splash, with a batch code of GFJ2. Im hoping this is 90's and I could just transfer to a travel sprayer. Should I ask for some type of refund?
ReplyDeleteHi Patrick the answer is "YES", splash bottles and spray ones are dated/labelled the same. But.... First of all, the fact that you bought a spray bottle and were given a splash bottle is already unfair to you. Secondly, consider -based on your knowledge- whether the perfume you received is authentic and "vintage." Sure, you can simply transfer it to a travel sprayer, but at least be sure they haven't scammed you with fake juice. Greetings, Enzo
DeleteGT9 Designer Fragrance, safe to say "89" yes?????
ReplyDeleteyes, "1989" ! Regards, Enzo
DeleteThank you,
DeleteSafari FL5 2.5 oz women year?
ReplyDeleteSafari "FL5" most likely is "1995". Have a nice day!
DeleteI have a Polo Green with the "Designer Fragrance Div Cosmair Inc Dist" with a code GHE1, I would assume the year is 1991? Thanks! - Jeremy
ReplyDeleteHi Jeremy! Yes! It's 1991. Great find!
DeleteI have a Safari for Men with COSMAIR label but batch code *W104. I assume this is a L’Oreal batch?
ReplyDeleteYes, this is a classic case of an old label with a new batch code stamped on it. The letter W indicates the year 2001. Great find! RotLS Team
DeleteI purchased a Men’s Travel Collection set (4 miniature bottles) according to CheckFresh they’re all from 2020s but there’s no way given the presentation and Crest being included. The batch codes are as follows:
ReplyDeletePolo Green GT126
Safari GT065
Sport GT118
Crest GT195
They’re all Cosmair releases, I’m assuming these are from ‘98 ?
Hi, it is highly unrealistic to assume these are 2020s miniatures. It is far more plausible that, given they are Cosmair products, they date back to the pre-2000 era. The letter 'T' in the batch code corresponds to 1998, which confirms that your set most likely dates to the final years of the millennium. Have a nice day! RotLS team.
Delete