A guide about Dior Homme fragrances -from vintage to modern- covering boxes, bottles, labels, batch codes, and all the details you need to identify vintage Dior Homme EdT and Dior Homme Intense.
Introduction
Dear Sirs, a few years ago, during the 2000s, I had a brief stint in the cosmetic industry as a chemist. Although I am not particularly fond of those years, I am nonetheless entertained in knowing all debates about "reformulations", analyzing batch-by-batch, month-by-month, picture-by-picture.
I especially enjoyed the ones regarding to Dior Homme, Dior Homme Intense, Dior Homme Parfum, and generically, all Dior perfumes and cosmetics. And when Andre from "Raiders" pointed out another probable reformulation occurring at the beginning of 2015, I decided to write this short note. Why? Because there is basically a very quick way to understand if a "reformulation" happened.
The "reformulations".
Actually, all Dior products silently advice you when a "reformulation" occurred: you simply have to check "the Number" written on the box, i.e. the number appearing on the corner of the box referring to the composition of the scent/cosmetic: when this number changes, it means the scent/cosmetic composition consequently changed: so, you know a reformulation occurred.
Here's a picture describing how to find the Number (Dior Homme Intense)
And here is a box of Dior Homme:
But what is exactly this Number? We need a few steps backwards....
During year 2003, the European Commission issued the 2003/14/EC Directive, about the mandatory labeling of the "allergens" on the box of all European-marketed scents and cosmetics, to be implemented within two years (i.e. year 2005, at latest).
Here's a picture describing how to find the Number (Dior Homme Intense)
And here is a box of Dior Homme:
During year 2003, the European Commission issued the 2003/14/EC Directive, about the mandatory labeling of the "allergens" on the box of all European-marketed scents and cosmetics, to be implemented within two years (i.e. year 2005, at latest).
Furthermore, one of the rules involved the "order of appearance" of each allergen, which had to be proportionate to its amount. For example: if you read on the box: "eugenol-linalool-citral", it means eugenol is present in a greater concentration than linalool; and linalool is present at a greater concentration than citral, and so on.
Since 2004-2005, Dior wrote this mandatory list on all perfumes, adding the Number: obviously it is a different number for each type of scent (EdT, EdP, Parfum, Cologne, Aftershave, Soaps, Body creams etc, have a different number, since the "composition" is different)
But when you read a different Number in the same product (for eample, EdT during different years), it means the "composition" inside the bottle changed, and a reformulation occurred. You could see differences in the listing, too.
Beware: a changing in Number/Formula means the composition changed; but this does NOT automatically mean the "smelling" changed, too: actually it could be possible having a change in the formula, leaving the smell unaltered, and vice versa (a bit unlikely, however...)
Back to the original question, Andre was right: at the end of 2014/ beginning of 2015 a reformulation occurred, and the Number changed, and you can smell the subtle difference.
Please note: this method is suitable for any Dior product. You could apply it on Eau Sauvage, Fahrenheit, Poison, J'adore, etc., and any cosmetic produced after 2005.
(Alberto Converano)
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"In my opinion, there was another reformulation at the end of 2014/early in 2015. Dior Homme (DH, EdT) has now a stronger opening, more similar to Dior Homme Intense. On the contrary, Dior Homme Intense (DHI, EdP) seems much more powdery, and the 'lipstick' tone appears more pronounced. Longevity and projection are unaltered. Both still very good in my opinion, but clearly reformulated again." (Andre)
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Batch codes and reformulations
A few pictures with the Numbers / Formulae (use it as a reference):
Dior Homme EdT
original (2005-2010) : formula 01704/A (or 01792/A)
2010-2014 : formula 05434/A
2015-current: formula 08853/A
batch 5L01, formula 1704/A
(an UV-rays blocker), formula 01792/A
differences between 2008 and 2013
differences between 2014 and 2015
Nr. 05434/A
Nr. 05434/A
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Dior Homme Intense EdP
original (2007-2010): formula 03214/A
2011-2014: formula 05443/A
2015-current: formula 08666/A
Formula N° 03214/A
Formula N° 05443/A
Formula 05443/A
formula N° 08666/A
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and...
Vintage and Modern Batch-Codes
Year-of-production,
Boxes, Bottles, Labels
EdTs, EdPs, Colognes,
all you need to know about vintage perfumes
for vintage enthusiast fragrance collectors
in the following pages:
Plus:
and others...
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This is great information to know. I knew about the changes in the EU for perfumery but not the exact details. I understand much better from this article. Thank you for sharing your wealth of information.
ReplyDeleteI have a Japan release dior homme 2005 version whose number is N01792/A. Does this mean different compositions are released to different countries during the same year? This article states the dior homme formula remained same between 2005 and 2010 but that has not been my experience. I am one of Dior Homme's greatest fans and I have noticed difference between early years and late years of the period 2005-2010, especially, there being more pear in the later ones
ReplyDeleteYes! there was a limited early release containing benzophenone-3, listed as 1792/A (see picture above).
DeleteExcellent post Raiders. I bought a 2015 DHI (5R01) and I just felt there was something different from what I have tested before. I felt there was something more "green" in the drydown, like vetyver, but I didn't want to start a thread in other forums for fear of embarrassing myself because hey, it could just be me. But yesterday I was able to snatch a 3W01 from a local back alley perfume shop and sure enough they were different! The ingredients are the same, but differed in order. Where they differ:
ReplyDelete3W01
Butylphenyl menthylpropional (lilial)
Benzyl benzoate
Farnesol
Citral
5R01
Benzyl benzoate
Butylphenyl methylpropional (lilial)
Citral
Farnesol
So they toned down the lily of the valley in favor of tolu balsam and the florals in favor of the citruses? My guess is they intended to make it less lipsticky by toning down the florals? Interesting.
Good evening. Could you please be more specific of what do you mean when you talk about a subtle difference that you detected on the 2015 reformulation? Can you please refer to longevity and projection too? Thank you
ReplyDeleteHi Sergio, longevity and projection both appear to remain the same: the changes are in topnotes (DH), and in the "lipstick" note (DHI).
DeleteHello,
ReplyDeleteI have a question.
A seller on ebay is selling this item:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-SEALED-IN-BOX-CHRISTIAN-DIOR-100ML-HOMME-INTENSE-EAU-DE-PARFUM-SPRAY/253491129651?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649
I read whole this article on rotls but there is like something not right with this dior homme intense on ebay, the packaging says it is a january 2013 bottle (batchcode 3A01), but if you look on the other picture to the formula code, it say's 10950/A. Strange enough, this formula code is used in 2017 bottles to, is it even possible 2017 batch is the same as january 2013 batch formula code? Is it possible january 2013 batch (as it is closest to the year 2012) is as iris centered as 2012 batches and/or as weak as 2017 batches?
I know this thread is old but hopefully someone will see this. Bought at 2010 Dior homme intense batch 0X01 but the formula code is 05543/A and not 03214/A which is the first?
ReplyDeleteYou are absolutely correct. By late 2010, the first major reformulation (formula 5443/A) was introduced, replacing the previous version, 3214/A (the original). Since these formula codes are assigned sequentially, whenever you encounter multiple different codes, the lower number is invariably the older formulation.
Deletewow people actually still active here, on that note i am picking up a DHI 2013 batch code is 3V02, what formulation code is that and what can i expect from the scent profile and performance
Deletewow people actually still active here, on that note i am picking up a DHI 2013 batch code is 3V02, what formulation code is that and what can i expect from the scent profile and performance------- Good morning! Batch 3V02 dates back to 2013 and in all probability belongs to formula 05443/A. Although many have stated that this represents the second formulation, following the original version used from 2007 to 2010, in our opinion, it remains an excellent formulation. RotLS Team.
Delete