*****Originally published in 2013; fully updated on 2026 with new insights and photos*****
Images posted for purely informative and historical purposes. All rights belong to their legitimate owners. Disclaimer: Raiders of the Lost Scent do not sell perfumes, not online and not in stores, and is not engaged in any kind of commercial activity.
A complete guide to Guerlain perfumes, from vintage classics to modern creations, covering historical periods, boxes, bottles, labels, and all the details you need to identify authentic Guerlain fragrances.
Introduction: Guerlain, from vintage classics to modern fragrances.
Among the great perfume houses, none presents the enthusiast and collector with a more intricate documentary landscape than Guerlain. This guide examines the full arc of Guerlain's material history, from the packaging of the 1950s to the transitional years of the early 21st century, with particular attention to boxes, labels, batch codes, and the typographical and regulatory markers that allow the informed observer to date and authenticate a Guerlain fragrance with reasonable precision.
The task is not a simple one. Over the course of its long history, Guerlain employed a succession of coding systems, combining letters and numerals to record the year and month of manufacture. These systems were neither consistent across the entire range nor always applied uniformly, which means that packaging must be read as a whole: box design, labels, batch code, and launch date considered in concert rather than in isolation. I would suggest referring to the photos for guidance. In this case, a picture is worth a thousand words.
The importance of the boxes.
(SEE TUTORIAL PICTURES BELOW)
First to consider is the Blue "ribbon" boxes : 1950s
Then the Dot (or Coffee Beans") Boxes: = 1960s until 1967
The Black&White "ZigZag" boxes = from 1967 until 1983.
After 1983 "ZigZag" boxes are not "Black&White" anymore; but made by different colors, mostly "Black&Gold".
The "Black&Gold" ZigZag Boxes were used (with partial dismission since year 1996) until 2008 at latest, then replaced with the "pastel" ones.
However, it is important to notice that:
1- NOT all Guerlain perfumes adopted the same type boxes, and:
2- several perfumes changed different boxes during 1983-2008 (a 25 years-span),
so the situation is really complicate.
Short on time? A single glance at the box will often suffice: the absence of a barcode places the piece before 1990, and for most purposes, that alone is enough to confirm its vintage status.
For those who wish to go further: look for the extended ingredients listing. If it is missing, the fragrance predates 2004-2005 and with it, the sweeping regulatory reforms that would permanently alter the composition of nearly every classic in the Guerlain catalogue.
From end-of-Fifties, until 1967:
From 2000 to 2007:
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------------------------------ 2007-2016: the "plain" boxes with a small circular logo. |
If you want to estimate the production year of your Guerlain perfume bottle using the stickers on the bottles and packaging, then read the
If you're interested in Guerlain reformulations and how the fragrances have changed over time, check out the "Guerlain Reformulation Guide"
Decoding Vintage Batch Codes
In the classic batch code system, the first character always represents the year and the second always represents the month. Two separate sets of letters are used: 10 letters for the years, and 12 letters for the months. When reading a batch code, only the first two characters matter.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
(from 1976 until 1980): 8 or 9 DIGITS
if the first letter is..... then.....
P= 1976
S= 1977
V= 1978
D= 1979
M=1980
(from 1981): at least 6 or 7 digits
if the first letter is:
U = 1981
Z = 1982
J = 1983
(The second letter indicates the month, according the following scheme: H=January, E=February, B=March, X=April, T=May, K=June, L=July, N=August, F=September, R=October, A=November, C=December)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
if the first letter is:
Y = 1984
W =1985 (example: WB 6AA 1)
P = 1986
S = 1987 (example: SA 4BC 1)
V = 1988
D = 1989
---------------------------------------------
At this stage, the BARCODE is shown on the box
---------------------------------------------
M = 1990 (example: MH 3AA 2)
U = 1991
Z = 1992 (example ZX 4BB 1)
---------------------------------------------
At this stage, the GREEN DOT appears on the box
---------------------------------------------
J = 1993
Y = 1994
W = 1995
(The second letter is the month, according the same scheme, so: H=January, E=February, B=March, X=April, T=May, K=June, L=July, N=August, F=September, R=October, A=November, C=December)
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
(from 1995 to 2001) : 5 digits
if the first letter is:
P = 1996 (e.g. PE A D2)
S = 1997 (e.g. SX A S1)
V = 1998 (e.g. VR 0 VS)
D = 1999 (e.g. DB 0 RS)
M = 2000 (e.g. MH 1 RP)
U = 2001 (e.g. UT 0K 1)
(The second letter is a month according the same scheme, so:
H=January, E=February, B=March, X=April, T=May, K=June, L=July, N=August, F=September, R=October, A=November, C=December)
---------------------------------------------------------------------
The modern batch codes (since 2002)
(from 2002 to 2007) : 4 digits starting with a number and a letter from the 1st half of alphabet (A-to-M), so:2 = 2002 (e.g. 2J02, but there are very few bottles with the old 5-digits batch )
3 = 2003 (e.g. 3B01)
4 = 2004
------------------
Here the LONG LIST of Ingredients is printed on the box
------------------
5 = 2005 (e.g. 5C01)
6 = 2006 (e.g. 6D02)
7 = 2007
------------------------------------------------------------------
SINCE 2008 to 2017 : 4 digits starting with a number and a letter from the 2nd half of alphabet (N-to-Z)
8 = 2008 (e.g. 8R01)
9 = 2009 (e.g. 9W02)
0 = 2010
1 = 2011 (e.g. 1T01)
2 = 2012
3 = 2013 (e.g. 3N01)
4 = 2014
5 = 2015 (e.g. 5P02)
6 = 2016
7 = 2017 (e.g. 7R01)
Now you can go directly to tutorial pics below.
TUTORIAL PICS
1976 (batch codes starting with "P")
-------------------------
![]() |
| Vol de Nuit, old sticker with "new" batch PFxxxxxx = year 1976 |
| Parure, old sticker with "new" batchcode PTxxxxxx = year 1976 |
1977 (batch codes starting with "S")
-------------------------
Parure
batch SB:xxxx= YEAR 1977, March. |
![]() |
| Chamade, batch SXxxxxx = year 1977 |
1979 (batch codes starting with "D")
---------------
![]() |
| Mitsouko Extrait batch DE 0104BB1 = February, 1979 |
![]() |
| Parure batch DKxxxx = June, 1979 |
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| batch MF 1056CE1 = 1980, September |
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| Vol de Nuit, Parfum batch UKxxxxx = year 1981 |
![]() |
| batch ZX 1IA1 = April, 1982 |
![]() |
| (from Ebay) batch ZF2FD7 = October, 1982 |
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| Chamade, special edition, Silver&White ZigZag box, "Copyright 1980", batch ZB 1HC3 = March, 1982 |
New Black&Gold boxes appear
Old B&W ZigZag boxes fading out
![]() |
| (from Ebay) Mitsouko batch JC 3HB6 = year 1983. |
old B&W ZigZag boxes finally discontinued.
![]() |
| Vol De Nuit, old box discontinued in 1983, but used until end of stocks batch YB 4BA2 = March, 1984 |
![]() |
| Chamade, old discontinued box still used, batch YK 3HC1 = June 1984 |
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| Vintage Guerlain Shalimar Parfum, batch YX, year 1984 |
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| NAHEMA (brown zigzag bottle, copyright 1979) batch YH3EA1 = year 1984 |
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| -Courtesy by Rubegon (Basenotes)- "Derby", Copyright 1983, launched in 1985 Batch = YC 4BB 2 December 1984: very early production.
-----------------------
1985 ( batch codes starting with "W")
-----------------------
1986 (batch codes starting with "P")
-----------------------
|
![]() |
| Vol de Nuit, batch DA 9BC5 = November, 1989 |
![]() |
| Vetiver, Eau de Cologne batch DT 9BB2 = May, 1989 |
1989-1990: EAN barcode
is shown on the boxes
here is an example of EAN Barcode:
-----------------------------
| (from Ebay) Habit Rouge, MH 0AA1= January 1990 |
![]() | ||||||||
(from Ebay) MF 0BB 8 (6 digits starting with MF)
= September, 1990
-------------------------
1991 ( batch codes starting with "U" )
-------------------------
------------------------- 1992 ( batch codes starting with "Z" ) -------------------------
|
![]() |
| Habit Rouge batch ZF2BB1 = September, 1992 |
![]() |
| Heritage EDT ZK 2CE2= June, 1992 |
--------------------------- 1993 (batch codes starting with "J") --------------------------- ![]() |
| (from Ebay) Jicky, refillable bottle batch JB 2DC7 = March, 1993 -------------------------------------
1994 (batch codes starting with "Y")
--------------------------------------
|
![]() |
| Samsara, Parfum, special edition "Metorites" batch YC 4EF4 = December, 1994 |
![]() |
| Petit Guerlain, batch YK 4AB1 = June, 1994 |
![]() |
| Eau de Cologne imperiale, batch YE 4AA 1 = February, 1994 |
---------------------------
![]() |
| "Un Air de Samsara" batch WB 5AC2 = March, 1995 |
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| Parure, 30 ml special edition batch WK 5CA1 = June, 1995 |
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| Vintage Guerlain Nahema Parfum batch code WT, year 1995 |
![]() |
| Un Air de Samsara, launched in 1995: code starting with WF, year 1995 |
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| Un Air de Samsara, launched in 1995, batch number starting with WH = year 1995 ---------------------------------------------- 1996-2001: |
----------------------------------------------
---------------------------
1996 ( 5 digits, starting with "P")
---------------------------
![]() |
| Habit Rouge, year 1996: first time 5-digits batches |
![]() |
| (Courtesy by Dofa91 Ville). Heritage,
batch PH 1F2 = January, 1996
|
![]() |
| Vintage Guerlain Vol de Nuit Edt batchcode PT , year 1996 |
------------------------
![]() |
| Vintage Guerlain Vol de Nuit EdT, batchcode ST, year 1997 |
![]() |
Heritage EDT,
batch SX0W3 = April, 1997
---------------------------------
1998 ( 5 digits, starting with "V")
---------------------------------
|
| (from Ebay) Heritage: batch VRxxx = October, 1998 |
![]() | ||||||||||||||||||
Coriolan , "Copyright 1997"
"VR 2LO" = October, 1998.
Vetiver, Copyright 1996,
batch VR 1S1 = October, 1998
----------------------------------------------
1999 (5 digits, starting with "D")
-----------------------------------------------
------------------------------------------------
2000 (5 digits, starting with "M") --------------------------------------------------
Mitsouko Parfum, batch MR, year 2000
------------------------
2001 ( 5 digits, starting with "U" )
it's the last year with 5-digits batches
-------------------------
|
![]() |
| Coriolan "UT 01K" = May, 2001 |
![]() |
| Jicky, Parfum, black&gold box batch UE 1JC = Februeary, 2001 |
| Habit Rouge, special edition batch UL 2G0 = July, 2001 |
4-digits batch code
2002-2007: letters A-to-M
2008-2017: letters N-to-Z
![]() |
| VERY RARE bottle Habit Rouge year 2002 with the old 5-digits batch ZE 1CN = February, 2002 |
---------------------------------------
2002-2007: 4 digits, letters A-to-M
A= January, B=February,
---------------------------------------
2002
-----------------------
![]() |
2J01 = year 2002
2004 ---------------------- |
Since 2005:
list of allergens/ingredients on the box
----------------------------------------
2005
Chamade, batch 5E01 = year 2005![]() |
| Lilia Bella, batch 5C01 = March, 2005 |
![]() |
| L'Instant pour femme batch 5E01 = year 2005 |
-------------
|
![]() |
| Vol de Nuit Evasion batch 7G01 = year 2007 |
![]() |
| Aqua Allegoria Pamplelune batch 7M01 = year 2007 |
2008-2017 ( letters N-to-Z)
---------------------------------------
----------------------
![]() |
| Aqua Allegoria Figue-Iris batch 8N01 = year 2008 |
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| Samsara EdT batch 8X01 = year 2008 |
2009
|
Champs Elysees batch 9V01 = year 2009 --------------- 2010 --------------- ![]() |
| L'Instant de Guerlain pour Homme batch 0Z01 = 2010, December |
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| Samsara EdT batch 0S01 = year 2010 |
| ----------------- 2011 -----------------
|
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| La Petite Robe Noire batch 2R01 = year 2012 |
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| Idylle Eau Sublime batch 2P01 = year 2012 |
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| La Petite Robe Noire Eau Parfumee batch 3X01 = year 2013 |
2014
----------------------
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| L'Instant pour Femme batch 4N01 = year 2014 |
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| La Petite Robe Noire batch 4X02 = year 2014 |
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| La Petite Robe Noire batch 5N01 = January, 2015 |
2018: ( letters from A-to-M, again)
---------------------------------------
If you're interested in Guerlain reformulations and how the fragrances have changed over time, check out the "Guerlain Reformulation Guide"
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Great Information to buy online
ReplyDeletePerfumes .. I am waiting for your next post
hello,
ReplyDeleteI have a question, if my box has no batch numbers nor does my bottle, which si a recharge vaporisateur of Mitsouko, should I assume that it is a fake?
if the perfume smells like Mitsouko, with a longevity of about 4-5 hours at least.....well, it's authentic.
DeleteHowever, sometimes labels on bottle could have been removed (phenomenon of "grey market")
It's strange not to see any code on the box, too.
Thank you Andre.
ReplyDeletei got a box today, at a closth cleaning, boxed and wel, there is the 5m01, its mitsouko edt bath numer also on the bottel,
ReplyDeleteunder the box its also written in arabic? is that fake? even the smell is not for 4 hours on my arm.
Hi sapphire,
Deleteit's year 2005, it should be a "yellow and gold" box.
Yes, there are arabic letters on the bottom of the box. apparently it's not a fake.
Thank you adre for the answer :-)
ReplyDeleteHi ,I've got a 7,5 ml 6 digit Shalimar ,without the box.I have a big questionmark regarding the way it was sealed: instead of the usual cord it had a small transparent plastic around the neck.Is this seal in fact a fake one,did they ever put a plastic collar instead of a cord ?
ReplyDeletePlease help me solve the mystery.
Thank you !!!!!
Yes! Many perfumes had a small "plastic collar" around the bottle. Enjoy your Shalimar!
DeleteThank you ! I would have enjoyed as is in a past life ,when beeing an arab , but in this one I will need to combine it to transform it in a feminine scent :-) .
ReplyDeleteIt's rather suitable for an english governess type of person.
A big THANK YOU to your work and efforts !
Hi Andre , I am trying to locate in time another Guerlain:ZB1CB4 in a golden zig-zag box ,pre barcode and with no double G logo.
ReplyDeletePlease help me out this time again.
Merci Beaucoup !!!!
Hi, it *could* be March 1992. Producers used often old boxes until end of stocks, applying the barcode on the cellophane. You could have hints by the shape of the bottle, too.
DeleteThank you.
ReplyDeleteIt's the golden cilindrical canister,refillable of course.
93ml
This has been a really helpful blog post. I am new to collecting and knowing what to look for with the codes allowed me to avoid purchases where the item was described as vintage, but the batch was within the last decade. Thank you!
ReplyDeletehi there,
ReplyDeletei did read about Samsara extrait de parfum in bottels of 15-35ml
i have a bottle of 30ml extrait de parfum, code yn 4cd 2, even i did look around the web, i can not believe it is not real,,, even i don't know what year it may have been. any idea if it is real or not?
thanks in advance
Hi Sapphire, batch 4Cd2 = year 2004.
DeleteExtrait bottles of with an amount of "30 ml" are perfectly legit.
cheers, Laura
Hello,
DeleteAfter learning that Shalimar Parfum Initial is being discontinued last month, I purchased 4 bottles from Amazon.
The cellophane on the outer boxes didn't seem fully adhered.
The box and the appearance of the bottles seemed normal. The code on the bottom is 3Y01.
I opened two of the four bottles. One cap seemed oddly loose.
The longevity seemed to be 30 minutes. Very short-lived!
It didn't have the same beautiful scent I experienced with previous bottles.
I got itchy and red where I sprayed it on my neck.
So, my question is: have you heard of people using genuine/authentic boxes and perfume bottles, and, filling them with fake/counterfeit perfumes?
Thank you in advance for your consideration and for sharing your thoughts
I guess that Guerlain startet using letters A-M again from 2018 on since I do have a L'Heure Bleue EdT with batch code 8A01 and formula 11153 (2017+) and a Shalimar EdC with batch code 8J01.
ReplyDelete
ReplyDeleteMy cousin recommended this blog and she was totally right keep up the fantastic work!
Bulk fragrance oils.
Hello, I have purchased a bottle of Shalimar EDT in the black and gold "zigzag" or "bamboo" box. The date code on the bottom is 3A01. This would put the date of manufacture at 2003, correct? You said some blue and black boxes were in use up until 2007?
ReplyDeleteExactly! Your black and gold Shalimar box is "year 2003" Greetings, Enzo
Deletei am looking at a habit rouge 100mL spray bottle with gold sprayer/cap. the tall, "listerine" style of bottle. the box has a bar code. i think the box also has a green dot, but i am not sure. batch code is ZX19D.
ReplyDeletethis conflicts with your information because it is a 5-character batch code, but it starts with Z. according to your information, 5char codes start in 1995, but a code starting with Z should be 1992 or 1982.
can you please advise me on how to date this bottle? thanks
Hi Gary! your Habit Rouge bottle is OK and batchcode ZX19D means "2002". Actually, Guerlain started the 4-digit code in the middle of 2002, so you can find bottles with the old 5-digits code during 1992. Letter X means "April", so it's "2002, April". Have a nice day! Laura
DeleteCan the vintage of Samsara eau de Perfume be revealed from a 13 digit bar code on the bottom of the box?
ReplyDeleteHi, probably not; numbers in barcodes are usually used for inventary purposes and to identify quantities (30 ml, 50ml, 75 ml etc.) and type of bottles, but not the year of production. Greetings , Laura
DeleteDoes this bottle style have a name? This is a 50ml bottle of Shalimar that I am assuming is from the mid 1980s?
ReplyDeletehttps://i.imgur.com/iEeFICt.jpeg
Hi Nosey74 I don't know any particular name for that bottle, but I noticed it only during the 80's, the capacity was 30 ml, and the scent was "Derby"; and 50ml for "Shalimar", sold in USA. Greetings, Laura.
DeleteDelete
I'm writing to ask if previous vintage editions of Guerlain Paris - L'Heure Bleue bottles had the Guerlain logo on the sprayer (the gold part) at the top, or were there also editions without it? I recently purchased a 50ml bottle of Guerlain Paris - L'Heure Bleue, batch code 6K01 (with a long list of ingredients and a 911M stamp at the end of the list) for my vintage collection. The label with the perfume name on the bottle is more white than yellow like the older versions. I wonder if it's the original :-)
ReplyDeletehi Magdalena, this is a good question! I checked my l'Heure Bleue bottles - all of them absolutely authentic - I can say that half the sprays have the Guerlain logo, and the other half do not.
DeleteSo it's perfectly normal to have a spray without the logo.
and yes, there are white labels instead of yellow ones. That's fine! Laura
Thank You Laura for the quick answear :-) I'm glad I found Your blog with all those infos about vintage perfumes :-)
DeleteHello, I inherited a large collection of vintage perfumes & your blog has been invaluable in helping me understand what I've got, thank you. I have a number of Guerlain & have dated them, however I have a question regarding the number on the front of some of the boxes (at the end of the volume info) eg Vetiver 200ml After Shave 1989 has 'No 905', Imperiale EDC 125ml 1992 has 'No 711 BIS', Vol De Nuit 30ml Parfum 1996 has 'No 30147'. These aren't the batch code & they don't look like the formula codes you show near the ingredients list. Are these a different way of showing the formula codes or are they something else entirely please? And are some more rare than others? Thank you so much x
ReplyDeleteHi Sandra, that's a good question! The numbers on the front of the boxes are the "reference numbers" and indicate "type of perfume and the capacity of the bottle". They have nothing to do with formula and batch codes; and are used only for the manufacturer's convenience.
DeleteThanks for replying so quickly. Here I was thinking (hoping) the number meant something special, especially as the perfume type & ml are on the box in great big writing! Your expertise being shared so freely is much appreciated, enjoy the coffee x
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteHello! I have a bottle of AA Tiare Mimosa. It was created on 2009 and then was discontinued. The batch code on the bottom is MB10F. I have no idea what year and month it is. Would be great to hear your thoughts about it!
ReplyDeleteHi, 5-digits batchcodes were used between middle of 1995 and beginning of 2002. "MB10F" means exactly "Year 2000, March". So, there must be something wrong somewhere...... Hope this helps! Laura
ReplyDeleteKnow anything about dates/special market relases for Shalimar in a blue crystal bottle with a clear stopper?
ReplyDeleteI’ve done some googling and anything that comes up for sale is bottle in Asia…
Hello, sorry for the late reply. I did a very thorough search and wanted to be absolutely certain before responding. I received a response from a Swiss collector, and Yes, I have seen a bottle of Shalimar made of dark blue glass, with a transparent cap, and a sort of blue velvet box featuring a gold “Shalimar” emblem. It’s truly unusual. The concentration is eau de parfum, volume 30 ml / 1 oz, and the batch code is five digits starting with D, which indicates 1999. Hope this helps.
Delete